Okay, I tried the search query, and its goin in the too hard basket.

I changed over from the old style front wheel bearings to Timken taper's a while back. Now the back left wheel bearing sounds as if it's on its last legs(seriously).

I dont mind the overkill idea on the rear's, and wanna put taper's in there too.

Can anyone tell me the part no's of the original bearings, and the taper rollers?(Can I use the same part number as the front tapers?)

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

As far as I know they are the same - when in doubt ask for Cooper S rear wheel bearing...

For reference:

Front: http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=34083#

Rear: http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=38270

There are plenty of Australian suppliers around with these in stock.

Looks as though the front ones here don't come with a spacer.
What do they expect you to do? Shim the old one if it's too short?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

If you are buying Timkens (front or rear) make sure they are in a KIT.
The single bearings you buy from CBC etc do not have the spacer. Thickness of spacer in each kit is selected by Timken to match the tolerance of that particular pair of bearings.

Timken's part no (NEW) for the front Kit (2 bearings & 1 spacer) is LM67049A 9F2B8.
I'm looking at the box....
Seals not included.

Sorry, no idea of Timken's current kit # for the rears. Karcraft just calls 'em 07087X (for the kit, with seal).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Give karcraft a call if in Dout they are always help full 02 9737 9944

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I've got a rear wheel bearing kit at work (seals included, they're not the same as the fronts) they're the tapered type, I ordered them for my car but didn't need them. Call Autobarn Doncaster 9840 1131, flash your mini club membership for 10% off

Thanks Guys, looks like karcraft might be the best bet.
Will give em a call in the morning

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

Hi, I have a question or two about these tappered rears from karcraft.

I've got sets for both sides ready to rock and roll. I also bought a torque wrench so I can get the locking nuts back on and at the right torque without doing any further damage.

Whats the best method for fitting these tappered bearings? The ones I have seem to have an integrated spacer so I'm assuming tollerance won't be a problem so long as my hubs haven't worn out. Is the hub likely to spin more freely or be a bit tighter after these new ones go on?

I think I've seen a few threads where people have used loctite? Is that a good idea? From memory its 609?

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

The ones without a spacer just bolt straight in.
Yes they will be a little tight after assembly as they are preloaded. They should not feel jerky though.
Don't use Loctite, unless the bearing cups are loose in the hub....
Remember, the LH REAR hub nut is LH thread...!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Kev, I'll keep the LH Thread in mind

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

hey,

I've just whacked them in and torqued it up to 60ft/lb. Haven't put the wheels on yet but spinning the hub feels a little bit stuttery as you roll it around? I can't hear any scraping... bad noises etc... its well greased up (imo) and I'm certain I didn't let any gunk in there.

Is this normal?

I have no confidence in my own abilities since ****ing the LH thread on the passenger swing arm.

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

Should be a bit firm. They will settle in.
At least you know the hubs are not worn- if they were, the bearings would feel loose!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Installation: I hope you didnt use a hammer!

Should feel like your spinning a safe dial. If there is a notchy feel then the races may be damaged. If they are "tight" and you can bench press 180lbs then they arnt in straight.

On your test run, let the car coast and feel for any sideway drag, then pull over an feel the hub for heat. A screwed new brg with heat up till it locks.

Spinning a safe is exactly what it feels like. Nice analogy!

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dwightgunning.com

The grease has to be forced into the rollers with this type of bearing. In my experience if they are rough to turn after installation then there is too much pre-load on the bearing and they will fail. I have never installed the rear ones on a mini so do not know the proper pre-load....anyone? Usually they are setup with a very small amount of end float, the front bearings on a mini being the exception.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.