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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 3:04 pm 
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It appears that Minispares are now advertising their timing belt as a DAYCO one. And wobbles just bought 2 there.
So maybe we can now get decent ones AGAIN without searching the world.
http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 0belt.aspx

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 3:58 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Has anyone tried PIES?

http://www.piesau.com.au/

These guys do nothing but power transmission. The MULCO website allows you to design your own solution and pick the best belt too.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:55 am 
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848cc
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Location: Flynn, ACT
Does anyone have experience with the Mini Spares belt drive kit? It's a lot less money than the one that jb007 supplied a link to.
I note that this cheaper one doesn't have an idler; maybe important only on a race engine?

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 0to%20shop

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 7:39 am 
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MattE wrote:
Does anyone have experience with the Mini Spares belt drive kit? It's a lot less money than the one that jb007 supplied a link to.
I note that this cheaper one doesn't have an idler; maybe important only on a race engine?

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 0to%20shop

Most of the Mini (Triger etc) belt drive kits have no idler. The belts fit TIGHT. Idler is not needed unless the belt is LOOSE (= chinese made, or block has been line bored since manufacture).

I have the earlier design belt drives on both my 1360 and 1412 motors and many race cars run them too. Mine are tight with both a Dayco belt and a MiniMania (Gates made) kevlar one. But I tried a Chinese belt and it was loose.
The Minispares kit pictured has dowel adjustment, mine just uses an offset cam key.

IMO the only disadvantage of all these belt kits now is they cost big $$$. OK on a racer but hard to justify for a road motor.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 7:38 pm 
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848cc
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Thanks Doc. Good advice.
With the good AUD at the moment, hopefully it doesn't work out too badly.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 2:56 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Flynn, ACT
Just wondering if it is possibly not worth the time or money on an otherwise standard roadgoing engine....
It seems like a real good idea to ditch the chain - quieter? less power loss driving a belt? more accurate cam timing?

Any opinons?

Thanks.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 3:19 pm 
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No quieter really as long as chain isn't worn out.
Might be worth a HP or 2 on a racer, I don't know.
I would use duplex sprockets and a Jwis duplex chain these days on road cars. Just advance the cam 2° to allow for future chain stretch.
You can get adjustable kits for more $$$ but I prefer std sprockets & an offset cam key.

Also remember on a road car you would need to fit a new belt @ 40,000 miles or sooner. To be sure, to be sure...
Duplex chain is more durable.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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