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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 6:46 pm 
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848cc
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Picked up the rods this evening. Turns out the seller was Josh from Mini imports. Will most likely buy a disc brake conversion kit from him shortly too. Had actually been messaging him through AusMini about the brakes while I was talking to him through eBay about the rods, never realizing it was the same person.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 10:19 pm 
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848cc
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Looking at the rods from a profile view, they're clearly assymetrical. That leads to the question of prepping rods to use in a stroker. How much needs to be milled from the rods? Which side do you mill the material from?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 11:43 pm 
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1275cc
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howey wrote:
Looking at the rods from a profile view, they're clearly assymetrical. That leads to the question of prepping rods to use in a stroker. How much needs to be milled from the rods? Which side do you mill the material from?


wait for Kev to chip in with the dimensions, but stick it in a lathe and turn it of both sides evenly so that the centre of the little end bearing stays in the same relative position to the centre of each main journal.

seen 4 rods done in about 10 minutes like this, and there was still time for a cuppatea.

cheers
michael

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 6:50 am 
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mickmini wrote:

seen 4 rods done in about 10 minutes like this, and there was still time for a cuppatea.

cheers
michael


can't imagine where that would have been.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 8:09 am 
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Grab them from the inside on a 3 jaw chuck.
They need about .015-.016" off each side of the bigend. Aim for .010-.012" side clearance on the crank.
You can lighten them a bit each side whilst doing this. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 8:59 pm 
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Can you machine off the big weight on 1100S rods?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 9:18 pm 
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Kennomini wrote:
Can you machine off the big weight on 1100S rods?

Yes. Been there done that.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 10:12 pm 
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So how much better than std are they? how do they compare to S rods?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 11:42 pm 
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I'd be surprised of rods are a big issue with minis.

The three main bearings and two bold caps present a bigger issue in my mind.

Question for the doc, realistically what are the weak points wit the bottom end, standard 998 vs cooper s.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 5:45 am 
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Quote:
Grab them from the inside on a 3 jaw chuck.
They need about .015-.016" off each side of the bigend. Aim for .010-.012" side clearance on the crank.
You can lighten them a bit each side whilst doing this.


Kev, do you mean you can take .015"- .016" of each side to get the .010" - .012" side clearance?? or Is that for lightening the rods in general??

Also, your photo of the rod, how much material should you leave on the little end when you lighten it to that rounded shape??

Cheers Shane

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 8:14 am 
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MiniVLT wrote:
Quote:
Grab them from the inside on a 3 jaw chuck.
They need about .015-.016" off each side of the bigend. Aim for .010-.012" side clearance on the crank.
You can lighten them a bit each side whilst doing this.


Kev, do you mean you can take .015"- .016" of each side to get the .010" - .012" side clearance?? or Is that for lightening the rods in general??

Also, your photo of the rod, how much material should you leave on the little end when you lighten it to that rounded shape??

Cheers Shane

Q1. A cooper S crank has rod journals 1/32" wider than a big J crank does.
So to use S rods on a stroker crank you either narrow the crank webs (weakening them), or narrow the rods as I said (better idea).
You can lighten the rods a bit as well, follow the pics in Vizard's book to see where.

Q2. I just belt linished the lumps off and kept the original profile.
I got them shiny though so GR could heat to the right temp with his bigass LPG burner, when hand push-fitting the gudgeon pins during piston/rod assembly.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 9:07 am 
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Ok, that make sense!
So does the aim of .010" - .012" rod side clearance when on the crank only apply when using a "stroker" crank due to crank flex??

I've got a set of AEG521 rods going onto a 12G1288 -.010" - .010" crank, just wondering what side clearances I should be aiming for??

Cheers Shane

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 11:05 am 
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.010-.012" total side clearance. Stroker or not. A little more won't hurt on a stroker.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 12:44 pm 
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Hey Doc how do the lightened big journal rods compair to the S and A+ rods?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 2:39 pm 
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Kennomini wrote:
Hey Doc how do the lightened big journal rods compair to the S and A+ rods?


Lightening 1100S big J rods (which are 740-750g)-
Mill 8mm off the caps
Linish the little ends round
Finished weight of mine with bolts & nuts = 673g.
Vizard's lightened ones were 660g with a bit more work.

Vizard says a stock S or 1275 Midget rod is about 690g.

A stock A+ rod is about 650g.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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