know it's been an old topic but can't find it via the search option, what's the go with new stock engine mounts not fitting in the front subframe? Been 13 years since I have had this problem. (didn't have this back then) thanks

I think either Dr mini or MMMatt mention they had to drill out the holes abit.

Just do a google search, site:ausmini.com engine mounts

Cheers Bill

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If you have an old engine mount i would use it as a guide for how much you need to slot the holes. I just used a file to slot mine. You may still have the "new engine mount" experience with pulling the engine down enough to line up the bolt holes, but it should be reasonable.

I can't be arsed looking for the thread as search is now boogered. But here's a pic shows how I fixed Quinton Hazell ones which have always? (well as long as i remember) had the hole spacing 4mm out of position.

In the pic, the 3 pattern holes at front are slotted UP 2mm and the 2 pattern holes behind are slotted DOWN 2mm.
I used a milling machine but it's not hard to file em, with a nice fresh round file.
I then tack weld 2x 5/16 UNF nuts inside the 2 hole plate (I have a jig to space them right as the mount holes are always oversize).

Note these Quinton Hazell mounts will probably be NLA soon, as the company has gone belly-up in UK.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thank you, thats the info I knew I had read before

Doc - so it appears the metal plates for these mounts are correctly made as per the originals but have been bonded to the rubber out of position - is that right?

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
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Yes and they have been that way for yonks. But otherwise they are well made. Better than others apart from genuine Rover, IMO.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Without wishing to start a fight with the good Dr who has helped me out no end in the past including this problem I offer another way of doing it without drilling.
I would suggest before drilling that you measure if the engine side of the mounts line up with the three holes on the front radiator mounting bracket and the cover of the clutch housing on the rear of the engine. Then if they are ok check if the two holes line up with the corresponding holes in the subframe. If either don't try swapping the ones and get the best fit. If they are out then follow Doc.
After rebuilding my brothers 850 engine we put the engine gearbox power unit back into the car with new engine mounts. It sat too high to get it in. roping it down and sitting on it made no difference until I remembered what I did 30 years back.
Fit the mounts to the engine and tighten. Leave the two large bolts on the front mounting bracket under the radiator loose.
Put the powerunit into into the subframe by the safest method, use a hoist.
Get a phillips head screwdriver with a shaft just smaller than the holes. Fit a nut to a flat 1/2 inch spanner and fix it there with a little masking tape or blu tack. Start at the clutch side and move the engine gently to get preferably the hole nearest the grill to come into view. Use the phillips head to pull the hole so that it is fully in view. Push the short bolt through. Get a mate to put a washer over the bolt even using a pices of wire. Bring the spanner with the nut up to the bolt and screw it on but don't tighten.
Go across and do one of the bolt and nut on the radiator side using the phillips to slide the holes so they align. Again put on a washer and put the nut on but do not tighten.
Go back to the clutch side. Remember that the mounts will be under tension fore and aft when the engine is in place with the top engine stay(s) and the gearbox is bolted to the brackets on the body (except for magic wand types).
Use the phillips to bring the two holes into alignment and push the short bolts through. Fix washer and nut as before. Do the radiator side.
Then tighten them up using a socket from underneath and the flat spanner open end.
Now go back to the two long bolts on the radiator mount bracket tighten them up.
Fit your engine stays or fix you gearbox. You can delay this as the fore and aft movement of the powerunit is usefull in fitting the exhaust / carbs and any other bracket you may be using eg for carb return springs if you are not using stock.
Remember that the engine must be held by the engine stays before you start or even bring up oil pressure as the torque will cause damage.
Sorry Doc, I'll now assume the foetal position for a beating.

adios,
I have been down that path before. Have used crowbars, lengths of pipe, blocks of wood, mates holding things, uttering incantations..
I'm now too old to mess with eachtime workarounds to make poor things (sort-of) fit.

The thing is, these QH mounts are incorrectly made, compared to BMC originals or Rover ones. If the holes are slotted 4mm as in my pic, they then fit as they should. It's a 1 man operation, no mates required. I just align them with a #2 Phillips screwdriver and screw the bolts in.

As for the other aftermarket ones with the captive nuts, I tried them once and has a similar problem- although the bolt spacing between plates was correct, the rubber was too thick. Not sure if this is still the case.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.