I've just replaced both ball joints on one side but noticed the suspension does not move up and down smoothly. I was worried I had not set up th ball joints correctly but now I realise the noise seems to be coming from the knuckle joint in the upper arm.

It seems to be not moving smoothly as if it is dry.

Solutions??

To replace them do I need to empty the hydro?

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

Replace the plastic cup and boot and lubricate it.
Greased the arm pivot lately?

I'm not certain that you do have to empty the hydro (been a long time since I've done the job on a hydro car), but I do remember that its very easy if the hydro is evacuated - I recall that the knuckle joint all but lifts itself out of the top arm for you!
Probably a good idea to have new cups, boots and knuckles on hand in case all three need changing. Also if the car has been sitting up in the back end, might be a good idea to add a washer or two between knuckle and trumpet to help restore correct attitude.
Matt

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'68 Deluxe w/Metro engine

If the knuckle socket wears through, the ball is running in the arm... steel on steel.
There is no lube provided to the knuckle joints other than the smear of lithium grease that comes with them.
I grease mine once a year with a `hypodermic' grease needle that I bought back in my Valiant days. You stick it into the rubber and give it a pump or 2. I do the back ones too. Don't overdo it...

If it's definitely dropped in height though, I'd let the pressure out and fit a new knuckle joint.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you buy new Knuckle joints they dont come with much grease in them (sometimes dry), make sure you smear a bit in so it's nice and lubed.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

I inject grease into them as Doc says. I inspected mine recently and they go dry pretty quickly. Worth doing because Yes it requires hydro to be let down to replace them.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Its not an area you should pussy foot around with....

I have seen a number of Mini lose wheels at race tracks....and wouldn't like to see it happen on the road

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"Show me the Mini!"

From knuckle joints?

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Mick is probably thinking of the balljoints..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

No....Mick was thinking that if the suspension has faults that it can end in tears...pay lots of attention to this area lads

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"Show me the Mini!"

I have seen top arms drilled and tapped for grease nipples that screw in underneath the knuckle joint. Would have a hole drilled thru the arm into the bottom of the knuckle joint to allow grease to be pumped in there just like a ball joint. Not tried it myself but am going to have a look at it next time I rebuild some top arms.

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Steve

I was about to post that idea JM, it works but you need to grease sparingly as it just pops boot off if you pump too much in. Use EP grease for best results.

Yep ads a grease nipple.

You can add then to the back ones as well, go easy on it or you
Change ride height Lol.

get a needle about a 19 gauge pack with grease, put grease in it
And push it In the rubber and boom greased. Small closes back up
As its a tiny hole a 19.

Good idea, but make sure you drill thru the nylon cup too, or you will jack the cup up out of the socket..

I find the grease needle works well for both front & back, and no arm mods required.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Do you mean inject it directly through the boot itself? or to lift it up and grease underneath?

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1970 mini k1100