So with help from the forum I managed to draft up a engine lift bracket, if you want a better image pm me and I will email you the pdf. Still need a hand with the engine stand adapter though:




So here's the scenario, I'm back at work for another stint and just itching to pull the engine out when I get back home. Last time I was home I was prepping and brought a 300kg SWL (safe working load) engine stand and borrowed a chain block (aka, endless chain). But oh no, I have no lifting bracket or engine adapter for the stand. A bit of searching during my lunch break and I find these same questions asked and answered in many ways. Unfortunately I still can't find all the info I need. So hopefully with the wealth of knowledge at this forum we can put it to bed once and for all. I will even draft a drawing for how to build an engine stand adapter and lifting bracket including all dimensions, materials and so on. I understand each to their own but at least it might be able to help a few people out.

So what I have learnt so far:
Engine stand adapter:

-most commonly 2 bolts are used in the alternator mounts although this is cast steel and may be fragile, thus it is recommended to use a third bolt as well (like the good drMini's, Fig A).
- you use 2x 5/16" UNF bolts that are 1" long and a 3/8" UNC (starter bolt) for the third
-A drafted drawing has been given before (Fig B)


Lifting Bracket:

-the how to guide gives an example by 1310/77 (found here; http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=36503)

-the basis of which I plan to use

Fig A:


Fig B:




What I hope to learn (my questions):
Engine stand adapter:
(I realise I could just measure my engine but it is some 3000km away and I would like to weld everything while on my lunch breaks as I don't have a welder at home )

-I will be using a plate and welding the pipe from the drafted drawing onto the plate, what are the distances between the hole centers? (eg, first alternator hole is 40mm from top edge of plate, second is 30mm to the right, third is 120mm directly beneth this one and then 36mm to the right)
-where will the pipe centre roughly go on the plate to achieve the best center of gravity?
-what size holes should they be to ensure a snug fit of the bolt (the +2mm rule apply?)


The lifting bracket:
-again what size holes? (same as the 5/16" like on the engine stand?)
-distance between each cam rod on the rocker cover that it will be attached to (bolt centers please)
-is a welded D shackle the best bet or another hole for a full D shackle to be attached too
-if the latter location of this hole



I think that pretty much sums it all up, I know I am asking ALLOT but if it is all figured out, then I can give back some pretty pictures to spread around and hopefully help some more people

Cheers and many thanks[/img]

I just lifted an engine out... Bought a cheap engine stand and made a cardboard template for the alternator bolt holes and the oil filter holes, then chopped the s@&t out of the plate that came with the stand... Works a treat

With lifting the engine out..... Bunnings sell small L shape steel with a hope in each side... If you trim on side slightly to fit beside the rocker cover, it works a treat... Did not bend or look like it wanted to bend and cost about $4
I then attached 2 d shackles to the brackets and the onto the engine crane

I know it's not a technical response but hope it helps

Thanks for that Huelin, I will keep that in mind for a plan B, but these L shape steel shapes, what part of bunnings did you find it in? can't recall seeing anything like that when I was there a week ago

They are near the deck stirrups and framing brackets for timber... Each bracket is about 3 cm long.... In my bunnings they are in the last aisle before you go out to the timber yard
Good luck

here's the pic with the dimensions that has the bolt centres etc on it. I'll go measure the diameter of the holes for you in a sec but I just made sure they cleared the headstuds. With this lifter you actually undo two head stud nuts and use those to mount the bracket onto the head - nothing to do with the rocker cover or pushrods?

The holes drilled were 10.0mm diameter - as I said, you really just need to clear the stud thread and not damage it, but not make it too big that the nut doesn't get any "purchase" for lifting. The area goughed out in the centre is to clear the middle head stud, and the two holes bolt to the head stud either side of it

There was a bit of debate over welding the D shackle at the time - either will work. It centred around the quality of steel/country of origin of the shackles these days versus how good you are with a welder too. If it is easier, drill a hole and use the shackle. If you fancy welding it, that can also work. Mine has been fine and I know some others who I either made them for, or who copied the design who have not had trouble - your choice.

The offset for the D shackle centre is important as it helps keep the engine level with the extra weight of the clutch end

Kevin

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Just a bit of food for thought.
If you have a remote style box the original factory tool was good as you could tilt the engine to get the tail of the box out easier.
Using the measurements you have and a bit of thought you could make an "A" shaped bracket out of angel to replicate the original process.
Cheers Rob

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82 BJ42 just completed resto
64 850 Modified(about to start rebuild)

Thanks for that Kevin and Rob, by the looks of the offset, both brackets appear to be roughly to same, just the store bought one may be a bit sturdier. Also any particular reason no one uses the bolt between the 2 fix points?

In my case, I didn't like the idea of undoing too many headstuds on that side of the head given that's where you're lifting it from. but I guess there's no reason why you couldn't just drill three holes. It would make it easier to make for sure.

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I like the balance point to be exactly over the dipstick for the perfect lift. But I can certainly get by with a simple chain under the bolts when I need to!

Gotta love a proper lifting tool if you have one.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

So I just finished confirming the drawing and will release it soon on this thread.