is there anyway of telling of a CV joint is buggered when it is out of the car.... when the car was driving it felt fine, but i have noticed that one has been replaced already..... or am i just better or replacing both

The bearing cage was difficult to turn on the angle to release the bearings on the older on!!

HELP!!

In my mind, at 25 pound each plus freight, replace them.

Grant

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

If they clatter at full lock, then they're gone. No clatter, no problem. Good opportunity to change the boots and the grease however.

They are pretty cheap however as boosted has said.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Pull them apart check for wear in main body, if nill then put them back together with some new grease, And fit them to the oposite side you removed them from
If they are a little old and canadian made or Australian made they will be a lot better than any thing You
Will buy today

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" A Hundred Years From Now It will not Matter what my Bank Acount Was,
The Sort Of House I Lived in, Or The Kind Of Car I drove ... But The World May Be A Better Place
Because I was Once Important In The Life Of A Child"

If CVs clatter on full lock it's usually because the grease has dried out or gone awol.
Mine don't clatter, even though they have a bit of rotational movement. I have done ~130,000 miles on them now and they were on the car when bought. They have just been repacked and rebooted a couple of times.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the advise... But I have spoken to the "minister of finance" and we/me are just going to replace them while out....!

As said, they seem cheap enough and looks like a nightmare of a job if the car was back together!
Thanks