Has anyone fabricated a shallow Weber box allowing the installation of said carby whilst retaining the centre speedo/binnacle? Also, how much room are we talking between the back of the bulkhead and the speedo?

I know there are off the shelf items and battery boxes are a possibility, but I was hoping to fabricate something that is a happy medium to allow better air flow, whilst not disrupting the doings of the speedo et al.

Here's a prefab one from Retro Minis in Lancashire.



"the actual box measures as follows, meaning the hole size needs to be bit bigger, the front flaps are just over 1/2 in 15mm wide
Length 11in 280mm
Height 7in 177mm
Depth in bottom 7in 177mm
Depth in top 2 1/2in 62mm
Slope on front 8 1/4in 209mm"

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

Lillee has a fairly shallow one, was fitted by Mini Classic in Ermington.
However he still had to move the speedo pod outwards an inch or two and use a 90° drive box on the speedo head.
Also, he found it would not take a decent sized K&N filter so he is running 2x Unifilter socks. His manifold is an RE5.

It all depends what filter you want to use, and how long the manifold is.
If you run a Redline 3005 you can fit a Ramflo R445-P5 with NO Weber box.
Properly ported, these manifolds are OK for up to 125HP at the crank (like my 1360).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks again Doc. I cant seem to find that part number online. Karcraft?

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

Battery box is the perfect size. Any smaller or bigger and you will have a squeeze on your hands or excess room. Basically you don't just weld the box in there as is, you cut it so that all you are left with is a triangular box without the short side, so that it's just a corner if you like.

How deep this is on your firewall will depend on how long your intake and filter setup is that you want to run. You will definitely need a right angle speedo adapter (about $80) and cut up some of the binnacle and space it backwards about 2-3 inches (depending on how deep).

Internally my binnable looks stock to the untrained eye, but a keen mini enthusiast will spot that it's a bit further back than usual. All in all no big deal.

PS. You can have a look at my setup at Rylestone this year if you can wait that long.

And now for some pics:

Cut and welded prior to painting:


When running socks:


You can sort of see the finished product here:

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Thanks Doc and Lillee for entertaining my inane questioning on this!

Lillee, the shots give me a good idea now. As for a peek at Rylstone, I'm hoping to be up and running in the next few weeks!

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

Looking at an earlier post of yours Doc, you mentioned some people pop rivet them in, but your weren't sure as to legality of this approach. Any more word on that?

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

p/no of manifold is 12-3005.
I just yesterday sold a s/h one of Baracade's, to Sam_1100.

http://www.redlineauto.com.au/products/ ... y/CFBHTSMX


The RF445P5 is a Lynx number, P5 means offset upwards.

re fitting the box, ask Lillee what grief he then had moving the wiring...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Allow me to illustrate in pictures.

Before:


After:


What was replaced


Have fun!!! But seriously, it's totally worth it. I have never looked back.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

The air filter is the one I cant find.

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

It's because the P5 offset backplate is NLA, Chong and I had trouble last time and had to order 6 of em...
You could buy an RF445S and I can weld the holes and remachine them, but it's a PITA to do.

PM sent.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What manifold will you be running Evan?
Do you really need to add a weber box?

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Now with 2 extra ports!