Yep that's where I tried to get info from..... That is why I thought I'd better ask before going to look

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.... 1977 Leyland Mini S .....
.... 1972 Leyland Clubman .....
.... 1973 Leyland Mini Van ....

this always gets me.... perpetually confused

didn't 12YTAH come first with a small journal crank, then it changed to 12YDTAH, and the change to large journal crank came in about 12YDTAH10500 ?

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Well this one is 12YDTAH79245....

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.... 1977 Leyland Mini S .....
.... 1972 Leyland Clubman .....
.... 1973 Leyland Mini Van ....

Yes, you are correct.
Then later, when the Morris 1500 came along, the 12YD prefix ceased along with the manual 1100S cars. The Morris 1300 (1275) automatic blocks had the 12YE/A/H prefix and continued for a while.
Don't ask me for changeover dates, as I do not know.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ah well there's your answer then, except if someone has already changed the crank to a small journal one

If you care which crank you get, it really is best to inspect it first hand, going by the numbers after 40 years isn't the best idea. My crankshaft is a small journal, it came out of a 12YTD, went into a 12YDTAH (ex large journal), came out of that and is now in a block with 1009 2xxx stamped on it....

I take it you're not looking at the ebay one anymore?

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

no i still am...... just asked him for the engine # i am going to look at it soon hopefully can get for a good price.... by the sounds of it it ha been sleeved.... can i just measure the internal diameter of the conrod and match it to the crank if as u say it has been swapped sometime in its life

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.... 1977 Leyland Mini S .....
.... 1972 Leyland Clubman .....
.... 1973 Leyland Mini Van ....

Confused, sleeving refers to the cylinder bores themselves being sleeved accept smaller pistons because they bored the original cast iron block out to 1380cc or more making further boring impossible as the walls will be too thin between 2 and 3.

Not sure what you are referring to with conrods and crank?

There is a lot to check out when buying it, here are a few:
- If indeed it has been sleeved what is the cylinder diameter now
- Measure crank journals, small and big and figure out how many grinds it has had
- Check crank taper
- Check caps are indeed matching block
- Condition of lifter holes

loads more...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

ok so im going down to measure the crank and inspect have got myself some measurements out of my black workshop manual..... armed with my vernier calipers i am going to try to solve this puzzle!!!
hopefully i have the right measurements for that engine
BORE: 70.60mm
Crank Main Journal: 50.81mm minimum 50.30
Crankpin journal: 41.28mm minimum 40.27
fingers crossed

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.... 1977 Leyland Mini S .....
.... 1972 Leyland Clubman .....
.... 1973 Leyland Mini Van ....

Don't worry if it's been overbored already to +.060", we can now get 72.5, 73.0, 73.5 and 74.0mm pistons before it's a boat mooring.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.