Hi guys, as some of you may know, I've run into a lil prob with my engine. Took to link and they wanna take motor out cause they suspect a damaged big end {bearing}?
Since the block is coming out I wanna add some goodies while we are at it cause I don't wanna do it down the line. Can you ausmini forumers make some recommendations on some performance parts ie: what to do with head, crank exhaust and manifold while its out. Should I have the gearbox rebuilt while im there? Whats the deal with having a dog box and drop gears apart from the racket the make?
If I decide to put a supercharger on it couple years down the track should I prepare anything now?
Either way I want it to be reliable and pass a Vic roadworthy without hassle's.
I also realise the SPI has its limitations.

Car is 98 Jap spi cooper.
Look forward to hearing your thoughts.

Have you spoken to link about this. I've not dealt with them personally, but I know they have a lot of experience and would be able to tell you what to do/what you need to achieve what you want.

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Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

Unless you're making 150hp or more, skip the dog box. Noisy and has no performance gain and will cost you big $$$$

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Ok. That's one thing less to think about. Do you think it would be worthwhile rebuilding the gearbox though while there is access, or any parts I should change. Maybe put a oil pick up in?

Maybe I should call them and have a word. I just wanna get some ideas and opinions before I go ahead cause I don't wanna make mistakes or forget something that I'll regret later on. Also I don't wanna get taken advantage of being a n00b. However I have only heard praise from link though and Bryan was kind enough to not even charge me for the diagnosis and didn't take out the full service that I asked for cause of the bad news. Most other mechanics would have still done that and charged.

Should I be putting in a better crank and pistons? Look forward to your suggestions.

Yes there is definitely stuff to inspect and replace. It all depends on the condition of the box now. How are the synchros? does whine in certain gears, or worst it jump out of gear? What you don't want it s a fresh engine only to have synchros fall apart after 10,000 miles...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

If rebuilding an engine it's false economy to just throw it onto an old box. At the very least it should have the bearings, layshaft, synchros and diff pin inspected and replaced if there is any doubt. AND, all the crud cleaned out.
Also, having seen lots of motors with worn crankpins purely due to oil starvation on corners, I'd bung a centre oil pickup pipe in. They are under $50 now.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

In the last 3 months since I brought it, second gear has popped out unexpectedly about 2-3 times. Since the problem with the motor began reverse has been giving me trouble every now and then (crunching into gear) but most times its perfect. Also 1st is a little stiffer since engine probs. I would of thought that was because the lack of oil pressure?

Whats the current plans for the injection?
Keep it all stock or bin it for more power without the blower?

I wanna go the way you went I believe...I think..
High compression head, 1.5.1 roller rockers. Lcb and exhaust. Better cam? If there is anything that may help a charger down the track that still benefits now?
But I cant go too crazy. I always get carried away with things!
Ill have to keep injected though for rwc.

My engine was built with the intent of increasing usable torque - not necessarily outright horsepower (even though I know with some math that one is relative to the other).

If you're hearts keen on a supercharger, build the engine to the specs recommended by
the people you're going to buy the kit off.

The vmaxscart kits will only get you maybe 90/100 hp without going to aftermarket computers and stuff.

You can apparently get 80/85 hp NA with these things if you do it right - but its not clever to go the 85hp NA engine then whack a charger on it - you could have issues as well as the unnecessary costs.

examples:

85 hp NA: bore to 1360, raise compression to 11:1, bigger inlet and exhaust valves, ported head, change cam, 1.5 rockers, LCB extractors, cat back exhaust, K&N (or equivilent) filter. Possible new pump, fuel pressure regulator.

90hp supercharged: 1275 or 1293cc (keep it smaller), 8.5:1 compression.
Head, rockers, cam exhaust manifold and exhaust are all optional - changine these would get maybe 90-100hp.
100 hp+ needs new injectors and computer management.

Is that all? I don't mean to sound big headed or anything but honestly 100ft/lbs or 120bhp @7500 rpm is easily achievable N/A. Doc runs even more than this N/A, no computers necessary.

Save your money on SC kit and computer magic, send the head to Graham Russell and you too can make 120bhp NA with 10.5 compression ratio, 1330cc, stock internals. True Story. Dyno proven

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Yep, with the injection system, 85 is the best you can hope for from an NA engine.
At the end of the day, the injector won't put enough fuel in there for more.

Thats why I don't see the point of supercharger kits for injection mini. Spend 3000 pound to get 100 hp, or sell your injection parts, throw on a dellorto or twin SUs and have the same result.

Too right...

If I supercharged Lillee I'd expect 150hp minimum... or bust

Is it because the injectors are too small? (profess to not know a thing about mini injection)

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Nope it's because there are only 2 inlet ports in a 5 port head and many compromises were made to get injection to work at all with 2 injectors.
It was done for emission reasons, not to get HP.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.