go to pop out the chippy at lunchtime and nothing!

was driving fine a few hours before

68 Mini-Matic, it was in neutral, I checked the fuses, etc dash lights are on and I can start it from the solenoid using a screwdriver but I don't want to be doing that too much

any clues Mini brains out there please?

Am about to go check the switch at the back of the gear lever inside the car, so hopefully something simple as I don't want to have to get to the neutral switch under the car

if it is weithr of the switches gone, what are my chances of finding a replacement?!?

You still got a floor starter?

It could be the neutral safety switch. Could also be the starter solenoid, or the ignition switch.
Does the solenoid click when you turn the key?

@ harley-
matics never had a floor starter.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

tried the switch in the car behind the gear lever and tho I wouldn't have a clue how to test it, tried a few combinations of the plugs and still nothing.

couldn't get to the switch in the tunnel under the car as it's sealed behind a rubber boot! - will have another look tomorow at work when I can get it lifted higher and safer!

there's no click at all when trying to start it by the key, but it kicks over straight away when brding the two plugs on the solenoid under the bonnet

do ya think that could be buggered?? if so, I'll see if Graeme Lord has a spare tomorrow - fingers crossed it is and he has one!

thanks Doc (again!)

Pull the little white/red wire off the solenoid.
Get a short bit of wire and touch it on the battery cable stud and the spade lug the white/red wire was on.
If it starts, the solenoid is working OK.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Steve

i wish i knew more and could be a better help.

Me wonders if its a totally dud coil? Kev could it be with nothing at all? Assuming the battery is good and connected of course.

Wayne

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..still waiting for the Italian Job sequel to see if the bus went down

If it's not turning over with the key (sounds like) it's not the ignition coil.
It's either the solenoid gone, or there's no juice getting from ign switch to solenoid, or the neutral safety switch is out of adjustment (common), or you have pulled a wire off the safety switch circuit somewhere.

Solenoids usually fail by the contacts inside arcing away, when this happens you get a click when key is turned, but no cranky.
However they can also jam, I had an aftermarket Echlin one do that whenever it got hot.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Check you have a good earth to the solinode. They corrode and simply stop working, un bolt it and linish or file the bottom on the mounting plate, wire wheel the connections all connections to the starter motor.

My moke did this stopped on the drive to have lunch an hour later it was completly dead oxidation is a very good insulator

so I took the Doc's advice and went looking for the red/white wire to the solenoid (it was semi hidden behind the heater pipe there) and lo and behold the wire had snapped away just before the plug onto the solenoid

replaced with a new bit of wire and off she goes

who feels like a stupid tit now eh?? eh??

taaa again Doc

Never stupid the first time something like this happens.

But I think people qualify to be called stupid if the same thing happened again and wasn't diagnosed quickly.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43