Ausmini
It is currently Sat Aug 23, 2025 12:40 am

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 73 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 12:42 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2004 3:57 pm
Posts: 1478
Location: queensland
Just let it go Matt,

With all those engines to build how do you have the time to bang on about a differing opinion

_________________
1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 1:24 pm 
Offline
Mods rock!
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 9:02 pm
Posts: 5079
Yeah, ruck it in guys :D

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 6:12 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2011 5:17 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Tas
Wow I started a good old war, I reckon I'l Get it balanced. I've been given a number of a guy in Launceston.
pretty hard on cars and this one will be a weekend toy racer.

What pistons should I be getting? Will be going +.020.
I want it to make power. So I guess a new cam as well. I don't care if it Runs rough, it's a fun car an I can deal with that. I've read about 1.5 rockers is this a good idea? Aswell as New intake and carby. Been looking at exhausts on minisport Is 2" to big?
I'm plannin on doing it once and doing it right. Fire away.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 6:18 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2004 3:57 pm
Posts: 1478
Location: queensland
Sh!t more questions. Here goes another 3 pages of arguments.

_________________
1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 6:50 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2012 5:22 pm
Posts: 780
Location: Quakers Hill
[quote="Wakes01"]Wow I started a good old war, I reckon I'l Get it balanced. I've been given a number of a guy in Launceston.
pretty hard on cars and this one will be a weekend toy racer.

What pistons should I be getting? Will be going +.020.
I want it to make power. So I guess a new cam as well. I don't care if it Runs rough, it's a fun car an I can deal with that. I've read about 1.5 rockers is this a good idea? Aswell as New intake and carby. Been looking at exhausts on minisport Is 2" to big?
I'm plannin on doing it once and doing it right. Fire away.[/

Mate I'm running a 286 cam 1.5 roller rockers 2 inch exhaust with a 45 webber ,very happy with the results, not a car suitable to be driving in traffic really a weekend toy, pretty lumpy idle not much under 2500rpm but goes like a cut snake after that

_________________
SPO41 Mk2 Cooper S very original
1993 R32 Nissan Skyline GTR


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 7:06 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat Mar 13, 2010 4:19 pm
Posts: 840
Location: Ridin' the rails somewhere
Wakes01 - the name "Vizard" has already made it into this thread. Although a bit old, his "tuning BLs "A series" engine" book is a great way to get a handle on what's needed to get your 1275 to make power.

As for the running argument, my take is this. There are masses of misinformation on the internet, on most topics. To do the best by those seeking information, we ought to provide the safest, least risky and most comprehensive advice we can. Perhaps balancing may not be needed, but if it is done, it might prevent expensive work later on.

Cheers

Jacob

_________________
'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver :D
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project



Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 7:55 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2011 10:09 am
Posts: 1048
Location: Pot Roast.
VulcanBB18 wrote:
Wakes01 - the name "Vizard" has already made it into this thread. Although a bit old, his "tuning BLs "A series" engine" book is a great way to get a handle on what's needed to get your 1275 to make power.

As for the running argument, my take is this. There are masses of misinformation on the internet, on most topics. To do the best by those seeking information, we ought to provide the safest, least risky and most comprehensive advice we can. Perhaps balancing may not be needed, but if it is done, it might prevent expensive work later on.

Cheers

Jacob



QFT.

_________________
So what's the last thing you remember...

I'm pretty sure you were..

WRONG ANSWER!!!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 8:09 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2011 5:17 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Tas
Bought the book from eBay. Well see how we go cheers fellers


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 10:40 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 06, 2013 3:44 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Melbourne
+.020 should go hard but dont be afraid to go bigger. Mine is +.030 and has plenty of mojo but my old car was a 1380 with pretty much the same ancillaries and it was devastating. Extra cubes go a long way.
What you have in mind sounds spot on. 1.75" exhaust should be sufficient, also LCB with Y piece can be a bit of a bugger to fit with a remote change gearbox
Get some head work done if you can afford it


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:54 am 
Offline
Bimmer Twinky
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8606
Location: Brisbane
Wakes01 wrote:
Wow I started a good old war, I reckon I'l Get it balanced. I've been given a number of a guy in Launceston.
pretty hard on cars and this one will be a weekend toy racer.

What pistons should I be getting? Will be going +.020.
I want it to make power. So I guess a new cam as well. I don't care if it Runs rough, it's a fun car an I can deal with that. I've read about 1.5 rockers is this a good idea? Aswell as New intake and carby. Been looking at exhausts on minisport Is 2" to big?
I'm plannin on doing it once and doing it right. Fire away.


:-) getting it balanced would be a good idea :-)

Yes hypertech pistons or GR`s hypertech pistons are the go i`d suggest,,, great value for money & very strong.


can i ask if you know if it`s a large journal crank & rods do you know???
easy to check if you have a look through the fuel-pump hole in the back side of the block (if the engine is still all together) because, if it is,,, those rods are pretty darn yukky , big heavy slabs of crap that are often all out of whack & end weights are all over the place,,, these are one con-rod to try to stay clear of if you want to have a quick reving "SMOOTH" well balanced mini engine... anyways, i could go on & on about them & how you can make them better & blah blah blah,,, but in my opinion it`s not worth the bother with them if you can avoid it... because it might pay to try to find some A+ rods , try Josh from mini imports, he may have a set of A+ rods that will be far stronger, lighter (not as OLD) & will balance up way way better.

If you`re keen for a bit of acceleration as a weekend racer type toy then a lighter flywheel is the go,,, many brands on the market & not very expensive these days either & good value for money to help your engine rev quicker

probably an orange clutch diaphram... if you want a quick weekend warrior type engine then the orange is pretty tough without killing your crank thrusts like a grey would,,, maybe a blue would do-->but fore how long? i`d go with an orange straight up personally (but it would totally depend on what grunt your new engine develops & how harsh you are with your clutch opperation)

i would (as i said earlier) fit a new harmonic balancer... the old ones are getting very much older & older by the minute & plenty of them are "Failing" ,,,rubber just does not last 40 years in this harsh mini engine environment,,, nearly all the 2nd hand ones i "used" to have here in stock from good 2nd hand engines are VERY PERISHED ... we fit the brand new MED ones on all our "go-fast" engines,,, or at the very least for the average roady a new std issue type.

yes some cyl head work is a must if you want some proper go-go,,, costs money & time & you will want to see someone Experienced with mini heads in particular for this job.

cam shaft is your choice ,,, but please remember that anything over 35/75-ish is going to need some more compression to get it to be used to it`s full potential & we (mini engines) can`t really run compression ratios much higher than 10.5:1 on our pump/road fuel,,, so be careful which cam you choose here,,, too big & you just won`t get to use it`s potential,,, come down a tad in cam choice & you`ll be far better off if you`re wanting to use fuel from normal service stations... a 30/70-ish (or max of 35/75-ish) is around a good area you should be choosing from for hotty road use (whatever brand/manufacturer you choose from)

& i say an "ish" after the cam degs i`ve listed as there are sooooo many camshaft grinders around & sooo many to choose from,,, i`m not even going to start on that """cam of worms""" :-) i`m funny sometimes hey? :-) "Cam of worms" ? ,,,, ah forget it :-)

make sure you have everything inside your engine sorted out,,, don`t skimp on anything, , but at the same time you may not want to spend 500million dollars on the thing either.

& locktite every internal nut & bolt .

Just be sensible with everything,,, just like i said with cam choice,,, you don`t have to go huge... Aim to just get it reliable & smooth first-up,,, then go & enjoy it.

it`s not just my engines that i go on & on about boys & girls,,, but just imagine how many other peoples engines i`ve worked on over the last 40 years of doin this stuff...

like i said earlier,,, i could name a pile of people who have built engines them-selves, or had them built by other people/companies... & i`ve had the diss-pleasure of letting them know that i`m soooo sorry but i can`t "tune" that horrible vibration out of your mini engine.

some of these people are reading these pages,,, some don`t even know of this forums existance... but honestly... """THESE DAYS""" (not 30 years ago) but these days...-->
if you don`t have your rotating mass balanced then i think you`re silly :-)

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:03 am 
Offline
Bimmer Twinky
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8606
Location: Brisbane
low'n blown wrote:
Just let it go Matt,

With all those engines to build how do you have the time to bang on about a differing opinion


it`s not about bangin on & on about opinion differentials

it """IS ALL""" about saving someone (or many people) a major heartache after spending quite a lot of money & time on their engine only to find it a horrible harsh vibrating-pig!!!!!

that`s all. . . simple as that.

Read my new sig below

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:06 am 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39765
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Good points there Matt, but I take issue with your instruction to use Loctite on all internal fasteners of the motor.
ARP recommend you use their moly lube to lube the threads of their fasteners, as it is the tension (elastic stretch) in the bolt when torqued correctly that keeps the bolts tight.
Loctite can `set solid' by friction as you torque it up, then the `bolt tension' you got is incorrect.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:30 am 
Offline
Bimmer Twinky
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8606
Location: Brisbane
i get what you`re saying Doc,,, & i have heard it from a number of sources

but in my experience with locktite,,, i can drop a dab of it on a bolt,,, do it up tight,,, torque it up to correct specs,,, then undo it,,, & guess what??? it`s still not set yet.

i`ve done it hundreds of times & shown heaps of people after they have said the very same thing.

i use loctite in every internal component`s fastener... without fail. :-) oh i`m just full of puns today :-)

Edit--> however,,, let it be known that i`m not going to tell you "NOT" to do what ARP suggest with their own components,,, so --->please do whatever the ARP people tell you to do if you use their fasteners.

But i use lockquick spray primer & then loctite on everything inside the engine & gearbox & diff & & & & . :-)

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:37 am 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2004 3:57 pm
Posts: 1478
Location: queensland
Just couldn't let it go could you Matt.

Had to have the last say.

If anyone else has any worn out standard bore 1275 engines they would like to sell me I am happy to take them off your hands.

_________________
1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:40 am 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc

Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 1:52 pm
Posts: 2582
Location: Brisbane
Just a question for those in the know;
When the factory balanced engines did they do them as a reciprocating assembly? IE pully and flywheel assembled to crankshaft?
or was each part balanced seperately?


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 73 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 253 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.