Well im at the stage where the front suspension " donuts, trumpets and wheel hubs etc "have been removed and after pulling the drums apart i found the drum scored .......


Now the problem is do i need new drums and if so do i change them all round ? ..... and can you check the wheel brake cyclinders while they are off the car ?

And finally if i have to change the front drums , wheel brake cylinders , springs , pads etc i would think the cost would add up or maybe i should just do a disc brake conversion " depending how much more that would cost "



Thanks in advance :Bill

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Sorry, cant help you with the new drums but from what i have been told, just get discs at the front. Even if it costs a bit more the brakes is somewhere you wouldn't want to compromise.

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77 mini sunshine: the slow build continues
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=70699

Probably cost about $300 in parts to replace drum brake parts, front and rear. And $1000+ to put disk brakes on front plus cost for rear drum parts, which will need changing if you do disks

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

New (Italian) drums here in Oz now are only ~$75/pr + GST.
New brake shoes here are $20 or $30 a front or rear set, I bet it would cost you more than this to get your drums machined out and oversize bonded shoes supplied like we all used to.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for all the replies .

Thanks michael the cost is quite a lot " for me at least "



Thanks Doc thats more my price range , are these from Karcraft ?
Also any way to test the brake wheel cylinders ? from looking at the Karcraft price list i cant work out which parts i need " cant tell whats for a morris mini or my leyland mini " still a newbie at this ".

Thanks in advance Bill

Edit : Forgot to ask is it ok to place the hub assembly in a petrol bath or will that stuff the seals/rubbers ?

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Yes Bill these were from Karcraft, I bought a pair and some new shoes there recently.
If the pistons come out easy and the bores are not corroded a set of seals will fix it . But...
New front wheel cylinders are cheap, note there are 2 sizes: 15/16" and 1.0". Make sure all 4 are the same bore and there are 2x LH and 2x RH.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks again doc i will get the whole kit & Kaboole , drums , shoes , cylinders , springs etc.

Do i have to get the cylinder size i currently have ? or just 4 of either 15/16" and 1.0" ?

Cheers Bill

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no, just 4 of either size, so long as they're all the same

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Thanks Simon much appreciated " as money is tight i just dont want to make silly mistakes " So say 4 x1.0 for the front and do i need 2x1.0"" ones for the rear ?.

Cheers Bill

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Rears should be 3/4" on a Mini with 2xLS front brakes.
But if you are going to fit front discs buy 5/8" S ones instead.

[edit] re your Q about washing the parts I would use metho instead. Petrol etc will bugger the rubbers unless all removed.
Use rubber grease when assembling.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc , i will be sticking to drums , and thanks for metho and rubber grease tip.

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Unless the damage looks worse than the photos - and the colour of the shoes suggests they may be fluid soaked. I would just be reassembling what you have.

Peel the rubber dust shields back carefully and check for wetness. If there isn't any and the car has been in recent use I would leave them alone as well.

I'net diagnosis is really dodgy... but if things generally look OK, they probably are.

Cheers, Ian

Wheel cylinders are cheap and seals are even cheaper. If you disturb them and the bores are OK I'd do all the seals, it's an easy job and peace of mind.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I thought that the 15/16 cylinders had a slightly different bolt pattern to the 1 inch ones. The cylinders need to match the backing plate, unless you want to file out the backing plate holes to match the other cylinders. Early Minis were 1 inch, and latter ones were 15/16. Changeover was in the early clubman range somewhere. I could be wrong as it is a long time since I have played with front drums.

I think i will just buy all new bits , drums cylinders shoes etc as i want it to be a daily driver and as mentioned i shouldnt skimp when it comes to brakes.

Also with the roadworthy's nowadays with them photographing your breaks i want them all shiny

Thanks for all the replies and i should have mentioned it's a 73 mini

Cheers Bill

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Project Pickles is ALIVE!!!!! Click Here!
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