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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 7:57 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Sydney - strangely, I am glad of the sight of hills!!
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From my mate Carst at Miniminded.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 8:35 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Yikes! :shock:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 9:29 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I saw one like that down at Greig's, out of a race car, crack started from the C-washer slot.
Good to do without one (as per GR's latest cranks) if running straight cut drops.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 8:30 am 
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998cc
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Location: Adelaide, SA
Correct me if im wrong but i don't think that you can run an engine without the dog rings ... happy to be wrong but i think you would find that the primary gear would move on the crankshaft when you put your foot on the clutch , the clutch plate moves pretty freely on the primary gear but you would end up with the gear cutting into the alloy housing


Nice drop Gears on the Gearbox

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 9:02 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Beanie wrote:
Correct me if im wrong but i don't think that you can run an engine without the dog rings ... happy to be wrong but i think you would find that the primary gear would move on the crankshaft when you put your foot on the clutch , the clutch plate moves pretty freely on the primary gear but you would end up with the gear cutting into the alloy housing


You use the inner bronze thrust washer, and make a spacer one to go between the back of the flywheel and the primary gear, after trial pre-assembly with the flywheel fully torqued up.
[edit] Can do this with helical drops too, just be VERY careful with the measurement of the new outer spacer to get .006" endfloat.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Last edited by drmini in aust on Mon Sep 09, 2013 9:19 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 9:26 am 
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998cc
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i guess that would work , so you need to have a Bronze bush made up to the thickness between the back of your flywheel to the front of the primary gear , so it really should be checked each and every time you put the flywheel on

Is cracking through that spot on the crank a big problem , if a flywheel and or clutch assembly was out of balance sure , but in a built motor it shouldn't be a problem



Beanie

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 11:19 am 
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It is a popular crank break spot on race motors.. the one I saw busted at Greig's was a near new MED 8 counterweight race crank I think.

Even Vizard's yellow book from years ago states that it is a crack prone area, he suggested putting a radius in the bottom of the slot. But on a race motor and straight cut drops I'd do away with the slot.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 5:12 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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yeah the Doc`s right,,, Stewys race crank (1600cc mini 91mm stroke)
doesn`t have the "C-Lock" grooves either.

& yes it is a spot to be aware of but generally not a problem for road minis

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 8:45 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Sydney - strangely, I am glad of the sight of hills!!
Yeah, that is what i said to Carst. It is from his brother's race car

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66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates ;-)


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 6:55 pm 
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1098cc
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Did the flywheel stay in the casing. :(

Looks exspensive to fix


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