Hi guys,

I've got a few questions about the bits and pieces on my Mini. It is a 1963 Morris 850. Most of the major mechanical modification was done by my grandpa about 20 years ago, when he had it fixed up by a mechanic and then resprayed.


Question 1) I've been looking at http://www.minis.com.au/page5/page5.html to identify the engine/body numbers. The type is YMAS21 which is an 850 sedan and the original engine number is prefix 8YUH, which suggests it has a Mini Minor engine. Would this just be down to what engines were available at the time when the car was assembled?

Question 2) The engine in it now has the engine prefix 9YATaH, which is a 998 from a Morris Deluxe. It doesn't have the magic wand anymore. I've worked out this morning that it has a 22A250 remote shifter. Is this typical of a Deluxe engine?

Question 3) The gear lever is not like any Mini I have ever seen, and either is the rubber boot and arrangement coming out of the floor. I have been told it might be from a Morris 1100, which seems to match after looking at them online. Does this mean that I can install a standard Mini gear shifter in it's place without any issues? The shift action is exceedingly vague/sloppy at the moment and I'd like to see if there are any bushes that I can replace to make it feel a bit tighter.


Question 4) There is a knocking noise when I am coasting down hills in gear. I've read that this might be the engine steadies being worn out or possibly the gearbox mounts. What is the best way to check this?

Tim

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Q1. it's a late 850 by the sound of it, with the Oz built 850 motor.
Q2. Yes it's a deluxe one.
Q3. Morris 1100. Mini Deluxe or Mini K lever will drop in.
re the lever slop, there are various wear points in the linkage, the motor needs to come out to fix them all. Check the bolts on the toggle linkage (on top of box) are tight. Replace the 2 bronze bushes in the diff housing.
If the ball ends of the linkage are worn, most parts are NLA, but you can get them built up with hardfacing electrode and polished back to size.
Q4. Pry the engine about, if it moves replace the steady rubbers. Also jack it up check the mounts.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Really tidy looking mini tim ..... very nice

Cheers Bill

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Thanks for the quick responses!


Thanks, it's getting there bit by bit..

I've been able to find out this weekend that the engine and paintwork was done in 1989 (same year I was born). The engine that was installed then was supposedly a rebuilt one. My grandpa was the one who did the remote shifter. My grandparents were living on a property in the Southern Highlands and he didn't get the car registered for a couple of years untill they moved out as the sump was too low for the car to drive up and down the drive with the deep wheel ruts.

They are moving again and emptying the garage and I've found a few old parts. There was a set of universal joints of the same style as these in a polystyrene takeaway box labeled as "Riley U-J"
http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... L5000.aspx
A spot light which says "BMC SPOT" which has Butlers branding on it - I'm hoping there is another somewhere

There was the original distributor, fan, an old clutch and clutch plate, and a few other bits.

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Looks a nice mini

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Present
- 1968 Morris Mini Deluxe- resto
-1979 Leyland Moke
-2007 R56 MINI Cooper
Past
-1964 Morris Mini Van
-1965 Morris Mini Van
-1961 Morris Mini 850

Cheers!

Another 2 questions..

1) I seem to have a spin on oil filter. It has a Nippon Max MO126 which seems to be for a V6 Toyota. I assume I can replace this with a GFE443 or similar?

2) Is the fan on the right way?

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That Toyota filter is same as a Mini one.
I buy mine from karcraft, they are cheaper there by the dozen...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cool, I ended up getting a Z418 and it's working good so far

Had a look at the gearbox mount and it is definitely the cause for the noise. I've got one on order now


Next issues:

1) The engine runs hot a lot of the time. It's normally ok along flat roads, but as soon as I'm going up a hill or going above 90kph the temp goes up over 100deg. I've checked the temperature gauge is accurate using a calibrated laser thermometer from work. The fan blade is shown above, is there a better one I can use? I noticed the fan belt was pretty loose the other day so I tightened it up. The coolant is nice and green. Is there a recommended thermostat temp to go for?

2) What is the best way to do the timing? I'm used to hooking it up to the battery, but the mini has it in the boot..

3) The speedo stopped working a few weeks ago. There had been a whirring sound coming from the speedo and the needle was swinging back and forth a bit just before it stopped working. The odometer doesn't work either. The cable out the back of the speedo has squarish edges but the back of the speedo doesn't seem to have a square hole anymore?

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Get a navman or tomtom and use that as'a speedo more accurate my speedo dont work either i got a new cable but could be bothered puting it in yet

Have you given your radiator a Clean?

This is the main reason for most peoples overheating issues (atleast all the firsthand experiences I have had with people I know)

unhook the heater outlet pipe from the head and pump water through it with the garden hose, which is pumping water the reverse way reverse way which might clean some of the gunk out which may help.

Otherwise I'd say its a matter or pulling radiator out chucking some hydrochloric acid in it to assist cleaning it (dont leave it in there for too long though) if that don't work getting it serviced/rodded and cleaned/recored

You mean hooking your timing light to the battery? just hook the positive to the solenoid (above the flywheel housing in the engine bay - has a large thick black cable going to it with a black cover - peel it back and clamp it there) and then just use a head bolt or the earth strap for the earth

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re that remote rear mount, make sure when you fit the new one that there is NO gap between the bracket and the mount before you tighten the nut on the stud. Push the bracket forward after fitting and retighten the 3 bolts, if necessary.
If there is any gap there the new mount will shear off quick smart. Been there, done that...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I agree about having the radiator serviced. I had mine rebuild at a place in Unanderra and it has been perfect since. It was only about $200 to have a new core fitted to the tanks. Also flushing the head in both directions could help.


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Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

it's an 850, and probably still has a floor start - so no solenoid....

you *could* connect the timing light to the +12 on the coil (I doubt if they draw much current) or get a long bit of wire and run it around the car as a timing light extension

or power it off another car, or off a battery on the floor, or from a 12v adapter in a powerpoint, or or or

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Make a 1M wire up with a spade connector on the end and plug it into a live 12V+ lug on the fusebox.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That's what I've been using. I'd like to have at least the odometer working though so I know how far I've gone since I filled up


I might have a good look at it. I'm hoping it's not the old manky radiator that got brazed to repair the holes! It almost looks cheaper to buy a new one than to get the old one fixed? Should I go to a lower temp thermostat like a 74? Or a six blade fan?

No worries I'll keep that in mind

Well I replaced the battery on our other car on Tuesday so that would be the best option I guess!

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