Greetings All.
Have looked at the "How To" pages for bleeding brakes. (Maybe it's just me, Ha)

I have heard there are different methods.

With the reservoir filled, I have someone pump the pedal two or three times. Ask them to Hold it down, open and shut the brake nipple, then do it again. Until theres no air coming through, and the pedal is high as possibe. I start at the longest point L/Rear, then R/Rear, L/Front and R/Front.

I'm not having much luck. New master, and no leaks anywhere.

Any better methods?

Alex.

I seem to remember something along the lines of....

Fill up the reservoir, open all bleeders and go make a cup of coffee, or shall I say go and get a beer...drink beer and come back to check bleeders for brake fluid.

After brake fluid at all bleeders then the usual pump... hold....bleed....pump....hold...bleed! Starting from the furthest brake from master and working back to closest.

Cheers Shane

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If it's not a Cooper S, the mini was designed to be modified!

Thanks Shane.

I'm getting fluid at the nipples, but not a good pedal?

I've got a week to get it right. In the Bay to Birdwood next Sunday!

Cheers
Alex.

The way I use and was taught when I was an apprentice is
Remove old brake fluid from master (a 60ml syringe is good for this and just put a bit of thin tube on it to reach the bottom, you can get these from a chemist)
Start at the furthest point from the master cylinder use a bit of clear hose that fits over the bleed nipple and drains into a bottle.
crack the nipple and pump the brake pedal until the new fluid comes through(color change) or until no more air bubbles. DO NOT PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR only use 3/4 travel. You can damage the master cylinder if you push to far.
Once all air/old fluid is out, tighten the bleed nipple get someone to put the pedal three times and hold it down, then crack the bleed nipple then tighten again.
Repeat that 3 times but on the third time don't full crack the nipple fully just half crack it then tighten again.
Repeat on the other three corners finishing on the brake that is closest to the master cylinder.

I know you said no leaks anywhere but just double checking your slave cylinders in your drums are good?
Have you flicked back the rubber boot to make sure there is no fluid there?

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I have an Addiction just not the time.......
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80459
1968 Morris 1100 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=101555

Thanks Surtees,

Gonna check slaves to be sure.
Will try this method.

Alex.

No worries good luck!

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I have an Addiction just not the time.......
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80459
1968 Morris 1100 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=101555

I always have more luck jacking the rear up before I bleed the rears, seems to get more air out & results in a firmer pedal. Taught to me as an apprentice by an old BMC mechanic.

Ash.

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----------1984 Mini Mayfair with not much 1984 Mayfair left of it!-----------
----------1968 fake Cooper S that messed with a tree -----------------------------

go get a (Gunsen?) brake bleed kit. Has a plastic bottle that you fill with clean brake fluid, a tube that goes to a cap that fits your cars' reservoir, and a hose that connects to a tyre at 10-15psi pressure. The pressure builds up insde the bottle and forces fluid up the tube and into your reservoir. Open each bleed nipple individually and watch the new fluid come through (and also no air bubbles). As mentioned before, always best doing this into a clear plastic bottle with a little fluid in, through a tube so that you can watch for fluid colour change, bubbles etc. plus a lot less messy than just spraying brake fluid all over the subframes/body/workshop floor. Top notch perfect pedal every time if done correctly, just ensure you keep the bottle topped up with fluid as it will run dry if you're bleeding for too long.

Benefits.....No operating of pedal/master cylinder to bleed brakes so reducing risk of damaging internal seals etc. Plus a lot easier to bleed brakes on your own!



http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gunson-G4062 ... %26ps%3D54

I was taught to place a scrap piece of wood about 2" thick behind the pedal. Same reason.

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Behold! The mighty 850!

I just bought a vacuum bleeder, hook it up to your air line crack the nipple and sucks the fluid through. One of the best tools I have invested in for my shed, no more pedal pumping.

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1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S

Pressure bleeder is the single biggest time and frustration saving tool I ever bought. Paid for its self over and over.

Pump too hard, rear mounted inertia valve locks. Pump too soft, air won't move from high points in line and cylinder. Even if you judge juuuuuust right the stroke isn't long enough to shift enough fluid in one motion.

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http://www.mini-hb.co.nz

Are your drums adjusted nicely against the drums? If they are too far out you will get a soft pedal is it takes up the slack.

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To the peeps that have these pressure bleeders did you get the Gunsen one ? and approx price to please.

Cheers Bill

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Project Pickles is ALIVE!!!!! Click Here!
Success is so much sweeter after the struggle

Are your adjusters on the back plate loose or worn out on one side on the front

Not gunsen, dont recall the make but it was about $150 on ebay came from the UK

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1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S