so literally a mile or so from home, but luckily on my street, the dreaded lose all power and come to a stop (3 mins earlier I was in the middle lane on the F6 doing 90ks!)

I took a wild guess to what it was as it had done something similar before years ago and yep, the low tension wire from the coil inside the dizzy had come away from the small nut on the points.

I go to try and unscrew it to get it back on and the thread inside the screw snaps off with the nut still attached, and then the plastic plug behind that splits in two as well!!

My question is, do I get a whole new distributor or is this part replaceable? and or worth replacing??

the nut highlighted here is what came off



Luckily the NRMA man was there in 10 minutes, attached an electric ignition bypass or something and got me started to go the last bit up the hill home.

thaks in advance for any of your help once again

Steve

_________________
1968 Mini-Matic

Steve, it is the 21st century, put an electronic module in it. `Convertible Mini' on here sells them, so do the usual suspects.
If you can't get one for an Aussie 29D dizzy I would fit a later one (43D/45D) which don't wear themselves out as fast.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I was planning on doing that (one day . . ) but I guess have been kicked into it eh?

I'll get it towed to Graeme Lord's to upgrade it when he can

cheers

_________________
1968 Mini-Matic

Steve I have one of Convertible Mini's Electronic modules. I think he does a 29D Kit.

Installing is as easy as fitting new points, very simple just DIY. Then never set points gap again.

PM here.... http://www.ausmini.com/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=645

_________________

68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

Hi Phil

do I still need the corroded bits that fell apart but?

when it comes to electrics, I'm not the brightest spark believe me!!

_________________
1968 Mini-Matic

The module has 2 wires attached, both go up to the coil. I don't think you need the breaker plate to dizzy wire, and you definitely don't need the old coil to points post wire.

Looks similar to this one- http://www.flickr.com/photos/31275265@N05/10288746954/

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm pretty sure the part you are talking about is part of the points, which are replaceable anyway. They are normally replaced when worn anyway.

This is the points set and condenser I removed to do my replacement.



The electronic replacement will look sorting like this.

_________________

68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

yep pretty much - but do I still need that nut and screw to be attached as mine snapped right off!

and can any idiot (as in THIS idiot) do this job pretty easy??

_________________
1968 Mini-Matic

All you need is the little screw that holds the fixed point plate on.
Yes it's idiotproof. Just do NOT leave the ignition turned on more than 30 secs or so without the motor running or you can fry the module.
If you have a radio in there don't wire it through the ignition switch unless it has an acc position.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

No, not if it's part of the points. Normally when you replace the points and condenser everything in my first photo goes in the trash.

Steve it's easy. The points are removed by undoing the big slotted screw in your pic at the middle arrow. You would also undo the small phillips screw to remove the condenser. Just be careful not to drop the screw into the dissy.

It all just lifts out. You could then just replace with a new points set and condenser, set the gap of the points to the correct opening and you are back in business as before.

If you decide to fit the electronic kit the plate is the same shape and just bolts in the same way, theres no condenser anymore but there now two new wires that go to the coil.

There is also a circular tigger that you slip down over the shaft under the rotor button.

The only thing I'm not sure of is once you install the electonic kit do you need to get the timing rechecked ??because it could be slightly different. I'm not sure of that but someone will know.

_________________

68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

so with great thanks to Tony (Convertible Mini) and the new electronic dizzy fitted by Graeme Lord's automotive, I have my Mini back on the road with much improved starting and oomph!

highly recommended

cheers

_________________
1968 Mini-Matic

Yes Steve it is amazing what good performance improvements one gets by fitting a decent Electronic distributor? I am glad to have been of assistance to your problem.

_________________
DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"