Hi guys, with my mini staying and my budget for a Rover on hold I'm going to buy a new engine for the old girl.

I have absolutely no interest (time) in rebuilding the motor myself so a complete package will go in.

I've got 7.5discs and a booster, and I'm aiming for fast road, but longevity and reliability are more important factors, so nothing crazy.

What combos or packages do you recommend?

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'63 850/1100 + more cooper goodies

budget? preference? (small bore or big bore), NA or induction? plenty of options...

id go fast small bore, 1098 with some 68mm pistons ported and flowed head (202 or 295, or hell a 940) strong bottom end, cross pin diff and away she goes!
god forbid, if it breaks, pick another small bore block off the pile and go again! they are cheap and plentiful!

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

Pretty much a blank cheque, some reason I have the rough figure of 5k? It's really an uneducated guess.

No real preference per say but maybe something that likes to rev a bit easier so an 1100 makes a lot of sense. I like the power and performance that my current 1100 (worked to some unknown extent) it's just the wall of smoke that ensues that bothers me.

Probably just going for NA for ease of installation and maintenance unless someone has a different opinion?

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'63 850/1100 + more cooper goodies

I'd be interested in what people suggest here, especially estimated costs...

I'm looking to get an "improved" 1098 to replace my 998 in the near future.... im not sure i can afford a big block, but an 1100 would still be a big upgrade

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1975 Hairy Lime/White Clubby
Build Thread: http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=80657

You can use your 998 block, it is identical to a 1098 one. So are the conrods.
Find a 1098 crank, bore the block for some oversize pistons, presto! You have a 1098.. and no need to even change the engine number on the rego.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

buy yourself a 1275 engine, bore it out to whatever size (just to clean it up) 1330-1360-ish is nice
add a mild cam, do a bit of head work (open the holes up & angle them nice), clean-up/overhaul the rest of it (IE: gearbox/diff etc)
add a light flywheel & a Quaife LSD
set-up a nice single 1&3/4 carb on a match-ported alloy inlet manifold, with a nice small-ish set of extractors & a 1&3/4" pipe

no need for anything fancy-er than that

great thing, very reliable/strong & lovely broad spread power you will keep it for a very very long time with no dramas

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Glad to hear that your keeping it Callin

as Matt Said ..1275 with a little bit of work and it will be a sweet thing and should work very well with your 5k budget


Cheers
Beanie

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I am the son of the STIG

HOTBRICKS
http://hotbricks.org.au/

'65 NCF MINI.....
'69 MINIMATIC.... 9 year resto still on the go

Would a 1300+ RTR package from someone like mini & moke be on the right track?

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'63 850/1100 + more cooper goodies

mini & moke do quite well packages. i enquired about an 1100 and it was $6k exchange (i give them my old engine) which didnt seem like a bad price since a rebuild would be close to that price

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What would be the going rate for a 1275 long motor to suit a rebuild roughly?

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'63 850/1100 + more cooper goodies

Just had a 1275A+ engine fully rebuilt/manufactured to 1310 with all good gear, cam that was suitable for an every day drive (fastish road) with fully reconditioned rod change box running 3.2 diff and some ancillaries and that was $6500 outright. Already had twin carbies and some other bits for it. Just getting ready to put it in within the next couple of weeks I hope.

Dave

Whats the advantages/downsides to getting a 1275A+ over a normal one?

is one of them cheaper or better than the other?

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1975 Hairy Lime/White Clubby
Build Thread: http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=80657

A series are more plentiful over here, if rebuilt to fast road spec there's nothing between them. However 1275 A series blocks bore out bigger better, the A+ ones suffered casting porosity and core shift, many were sleeved by the factory.

[edit] There are still plenty of Morris 1100S and 1300 automatic blocks about, these work fine on a manual box with some oil way mods and an oil pump spacer fitted. Just make sure any block you buy has its original main caps. They have a number on them, this number is also stamped on the front of the block near the top, next to the water pump hole.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Did you have the motor already dave or did you source/included in the build?

If I'm sourcing a motor to build do you recommend something in particular Doc or just any 1275?

If that proves to difficult I might just have my 1100 done...


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'63 850/1100 + more cooper goodies

Pretty much any 1275 block will do, but I'd leave the Cooper S blocks for the group N racers and the S owners.
You can use a small journal crank and its S rods, a big journal crank and rods (or lighter A+ rods), or a big journal crank, stroked by offset grinding, wedged, and fitted with S rods (narrowed .030" to fit the crank).
Strokers cost $500+ more to build, have a lower safe rpm limit, but give more torque due to the increased displacement.

Personally, I prefer the small journal crank with S rods. The big journal cranks are no more durable despite what you read in old books, and are poorly counterweighted.

It is pretty easy to get a reliable 100HP at the crank, with a single SU, near stock head and a sporty camshaft.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.