I am wanting to install a AFR / Lambda meter in my car.
Does anyone else have one, which brand is best and who purchased from
Where abouts did you install the sensor

Thanks in advance

I'm using an Innovate LC1 - as pictured here (though it says its supplied with an LC2)

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/inno ... p-329.html

but I've seen AEM ones in use and they seem functional too

http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/aem-wideband

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I used this one- http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php it works good.

Google for best price, they are cheaper from USA than here.

I made mine portable by mounting the meter, a switch and a fuse in a Jaycar box.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

to answer this, I put mine in the collector of the extractors (LCB) where the two branches join together, so under the floor between the "ears" at the rear of the subframe - its the widest part of the floor and is as close as possible to the point where the exhaust from all 3 ports come together

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Tell us more about your set up Kev. Pics?

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

I have a PLX fantastic value and good quality item.Around $230 with the DM6 gauge on ebay. Ability to add other sensors to the same gauge.peak/hold and trending.

I have the same as drmini and got it from a local ebayer gameon-motorsports for $205. I fitted my sensor in the exhaust pipe in front of the last muffler. There's heaps of room there for mounting at the right angle and enough cable to mount the gauge under my dash.

Ty, I have pics but can't put them up right now, they are on my old PC (which is offline) and I've just this week gone Mac...
I will try to bung them up on flickr tomorrow.
There is a thread here in chat somewhere already with pics if you want to try a search.

The sensor is mounted 3" from the end of an 8" long length of 1" OD steel pipe, which gets clamped into the tailpipe.
The standard sensor cable supplied will reach from the front seat, out the rear side window and down to the sensor.
The downside to mounting it here is you cannot get an idle reading due to the in & out gas flow, but once you give it any throttle when driving it reads fine.
I fitted a 2.5M length of 2 core flex for power supply, two alligator clips hook onto the battery. I run the cable out the boot and up over the LH fuel filler, a cable tie round that holds both the sensor cable and power lead in place so you can drive at any speed.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have an Autometer analog style afr guage, with the sensor fitted to a spigot welded into the lcb collector just forward of the gear shift where the floor tunnel widens.

I'd recommend the afr meter for anyone using a weber/dellorto - these are complex carbs with four (five if you count the cold start) fuel metering stages/circuits that need to work in harmony. Being able to watch what is actually going on with the afr is really useful (and sometimes quite different to what is taken as gospel). There are thousands of potential combinations of jets, correctors, venturi, valves and correctors - the chances of guessing the right ones, or that someone else has exactly the same specs that you need are virtually zero. And dyno operators are working in a highly controlled environment which cannot really factor in driving style. With some patience and a bag of jets etc (which could cost you $200) you can save yourself heaps of fuel, grief and embarrassment. The A-series is never going to run like a swiss watch (although maybe one of GR's new cranks would do the job) but it doesn't have to be a tractor either

Think about a good fuel pump, pressure regulator and guage as well. my 45 likes 2.8lbs/inch, but people use anything from 1.5 to 4.00 - getting the afr and pressure right can let you run a more aggressive cam and still live with it in traffic. I have an Autometer jobbie for that as well -which showed me the Carter pump I was using was losing up to 3 lbs pressure under acceleration! Fitted a Facet Red Top - problem solved. Also discovered my long serving Redline regulator was 1.5lbs out... Some regs have a lag period that can worsen the 'hole' in acceleration, but if you don't have a meter to let you know, you can be chasing all sorts of possible causes, when you could be just enjoying the drive.

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Min - 1970 MkII S, 119hp Dave Anton 1380, SH Engineering belt drive, 1.5 rollers, 123Tune ignition, 48 DCO SP Weber, HP Headers, MSD, Maniflow ex. Swiftune SC/CR 3.7 + ATB, all KAD front, antiroll bars and gas shocks, 6 inch Minilites with Dunlop Sports

Pics of my portable setup- standard sensor extension cable not shown:

IMGP2503 by k_green1310, on Flickr


IMGP2501 by k_green1310, on Flickr


IMGP2500 by k_green1310, on Flickr

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi all
Just to update on the AFR I installed a innovate MTX-L meter and have just got back from the dyno where the operator was initially not real positive to after market AFRs but he did say that innovate is about the best to buy and after a couple of runs on the dyno he said the meter is absolutely spot on to the same decimal point as his master unit.
So all good news and thanks for your advise

Regards