Just an idea that you might not have concidered, how about morris 1100/1300/1500 or Austin krimperly?

Thank you for jinxing me. I'll remind you of this post when things go pearshaped

Hmm, maybe I should make that quote my signature

I think you should listen to your dad and just use a single carbie, after all dad knows best!!

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1968 Mini-matic - 1340cc, 45 weber - 92hpatw, 14.5 @91mph, GrandmaSpec

Ha ha

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

A Weber? Nah, they're set and forget. With SUs, you can have all that mindless fun playing with them and messing up the tune, especially with two of the things.

I must be doing something wrong, I just set them and forget them.

Me too. All I touch my su's for is to top up the dash pot oil. All the people I know with webers seem to fiddle with them and whinge about fuel economy but they sound good.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

It would be at least 4 yrs since i touched my twin SU 's , once you get them right , then they become set & forget .

People think they are hard to keep tuned , just an old wives tale .

I still get turned on by a pair of jugs (HS4's) under the hood.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

I had a look at a Mini today. It had been repainted ... which had crazed the way the paint on my MG has (says something about some resprayers methinks).
The real issue was some rust between the front wheel arch and the door frame, right down in that seemingly traditional place for Mini rust. The magnet stuck to it but not as well as higher up. It could almost have been a layer of surface rust covered with some bog It seemed sound when tapped and the metal immediately underneath the car and inside the wheel arch was smooth and sound with no signs of rust (been replaced? Do people do that?)

For my money, I'm currently working on the theory that any rust more than a few surface bubbles are a deal breaker. On the other hand, I'm in the $7,000 max end of the market, which sadly isn't pristine Cooper S territory.

My question is, just how much rust is a deal breaker?
I haven't looked at enough cars yet to know the answer and am comfortable with missing out on cars in the belief that if I miss one today, I will find another some other day. But it would be nice to know where others would place the 'walk away' line.

Personally, I would avoid any mini with rust in the A panel area. It points to rust in the sills which is a pain to fix (even though the poms consider this a regular fix). I would keep looking. There are good cars that come up from time to time & the more you look at, the more knowledgeable you become. If your'e looking for a replacement daily driver, the last thing you want is car requiring major body repairs!

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Actually, an MG1100 would be perfect

A Kimberly? Do such critters exist in the real world?

Seriously, I'm guessing that once you get past a sound body, they're much like anything else.

Imagine it. A rust free, MG spec, Leyland Kimberly. Unique. Quick. Able to join any LBC car club you'd like to name. Special to any daughter who's silly enough to listen to her daddy's whittering about his motor.

And then daddy fits a supercharger

Grouch , have a look through some of the members resto's and you will see just how much work is involved removing rust from the A panels , sills and boot areas .

For a daily driver i'd say that you would need a fairly rust free car , i'd imagine the last thing you would need is to have to pull it off the road for an extended period of time for rust repairs .

Good cars do come on the market , but you may have to pay a bit extra .

It would seem sound on the inside because it is a double skinned panel to support the hinge mounts. Inevitably rust in one skin means rust in the other skin. Typically mud builds up on the top of the hinge mount brackets on the inside and then the rust eats its way through to the outside.

Yes you can replace the A-panels, not yet done some myself, but it looks a bit painful the first time around. Alignment would be difficult because this panel supports the hinges that then affect the alignment of the door. An experienced panel beater or Mini restorer would be able to do this no problem, just don't expect it to be cheap because of the small size of the panel.

Check out the following threads for examples from the modest to the extreme of what is possible with panels by non-professionals. Imagine what a pro or specialist could do for the right price.

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=31553

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=38684

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=52628


cheers
michael

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

this started out as a little bit of rust in the bottom of the A panel....

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?