Quick one guys

When I bought my 76 clubby 998 the guy said that he thought it had been converted to run on unleaded . That's all he put in it anyway

Short of removing the head are there any tell tale signs that it either has or hasn't?

It seems to run really well, if not a little rich.

Cheers


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Black is the new Black

Not really.

If he is genuine, the head will have had the seats on the exhaust machined and rings inserted.

You would generally need to remove the head and give it a good clean around the seats to see this.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Why take the risk , just whack some flashlube in and keep the top of your motor well lubed.

Cheers Bill

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Cheers guys.

I will do that Bill, and maybe future me will get round to taking the head off some time.

Laters


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Black is the new Black

if the cylinder head has run for sometime without the hardened deats on unleaded a compression test revealing a low number will give an indication if the valves are pitted and failing ot seal. Anyhow, if say your compresssion reading is <110 then its probably time to remove / recondition it for ease of starting and proper performance. A good reading is >135 but unless you are out for performance 125 or greater is OK.

And agreed - why not use flashlube anyhow...

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Cheers xc. Will do


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Black is the new Black

what do you mean about keep the top of your motor well lubed ?
sorry still learning about these cars...

I run a motor for years on regular unleaded without any additive without any loss of compression, loss of power or closing up of valve clearances. (the timing chain was rattly but you can't blame that on fuel)

Just run it as it is and if it mucks up fix it. It will be cheaper than adding the additive every tankfull.

If your car doesn't have a catalytic converter a bit of light lubricant in the petrol is a good thing. Upper cylinder/valve lubrication is sadly neglected these days, this is the function tetra-ethyl lead used to play in older engines. But leaded fuel is really bad stuff.

I seem to recall , a lot of years ago , that someone on here said that each time you fill your car up with fuel , the money that it should of cost if you had put the fuel additive in the tank ,
you put that amount in a tin and by the time the head sh!ts itself , you will already have the money to fix it .

For what it's worth , for the sake of 1ml / lit , i reckon its cheap insurance to put lead replacement additive in the tank in case the head hasn't been done to suit .

Adding Flashlube in the recommended dose (0.1%, = 5mL per 5L fuel) adds about 1.6c/L to your fuel cost. A 1L bottle lasts me for years...
OTOH you would need to put a lot of pennies in your kitty to pay for fitting unleaded valve seats ($160 a set, fitted) + head removal/refitting.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.