Hi all
just wondering if it is possible to have these springs reset ?,
tightened up , increase spring tension , if so how and who in the Sydney area can do this ?

Mark

I do think that there is a lack of pre-load on them especially on lowered cars. If the car is an inch lower the spring should really be an inch shorter.

I wonder if it would be possible to make a torsion bar type set-up along the lines of the 1100.

I wonder if it would be worth chopping off the spring locating pin on the arm, then bolting a bracket on there with a pin, in a 1"? lower position?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Michael and Kev
I agree with the lack of preload on the spring
after 30 plus years these springs have been bounced and stretched
the lack of preload and tension is , IMO is why hydro cars tend to sit lower in the front now days
trying to pump them up to a normal ride height , a tighter spring I think would bring the front up
sooner when pumping up .
your thoughts ?
I like the idea of an adjustable bracket on the stub axle Kev
Might work on that one

Mark

Might be better to look at the front rather than the rear.
Sometimes they sit lower in the front due to stuffed knuckles.

_________________
The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

I Will have a look around for You Mark I may have a set of the shorter springs
and You could give them a Try whilst working on other ideas

_________________
" A Hundred Years From Now It will not Matter what my Bank Acount Was,
The Sort Of House I Lived in, Or The Kind Of Car I drove ... But The World May Be A Better Place
Because I was Once Important In The Life Of A Child"

Later springs were orange I think, are slightly shorter than early ones.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I would try the front first, try adding a packer to the front struts.

adding spacers on the front does not change the spring tension on the back
the back will still rise until the spring is under load , it does not lift the front
until the rear springs reach tension . it is the rear that I want to restrict , trying
to get the rear lower . eg standard set up (not exact ) pump car up . rear at 540mm
from ground to edge trim . front starts to rise , add spacers to front , pump car up
rear still reaches 540mm before front starts to rise , the springs still have to reach
the same load point before the pressure transfers to the front
I want to lower the back of the car not raise the front , if this makes any scene.
this is why I ask can we increase the spring rate on the old rear springs


Mark

Thanks John
You know my car , as it was you that made me settle for nothing but the best when building this car ,
all the best and original parts we could find, it was your project as much as mine
my car has the orange band rear springs
it also has the orange band rods from the bags to the swing arms
it has front hydro displacers 21A2012 single silver band
it has rear hydro displacers 21A2014 two silver bands
I have checked the numbers on the body of the displacers
My car was rebuilt using as much original parts as could be
any parts that were replaced were replaced with as original
rebuilt , refurbished , reconditioned , new
I have spacers under the front ball feet to lift the front
but I would like it to sit a bit lower without the nose down
I think that if I can stiffen the rear springs I can do this

Mark

I've noticed that when pumping my own car up, that nothing really serious starts moving at the back until the pressure is getting right up there. To get my car to sit proud of the wheels up the front, it wouldn't really move til 290, with a nice height at 320. Of course I don't want to blow my bags, so settled around 300. Its odd how it all works...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

The trick with the spacers is to get it to sit at the right height and the right pressure. Without spacers you can have one or the other.

But I still think the springs need to be adjustable.

if I recall, many years ago at school
it was levers , fulcrums and pivot points