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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 9:06 pm 
alrighty, on the drive home earlier my clutch engagement point started to get closer and closer to the floor and after some time I had to start pumping the pedal to get enough hydro pressure to slot it into gear...

now as some of you might have read ive noticed a bit of an oil weep under neath the engine bay. The engine oil seems fine. The clutch reservoir is at about 3/4 or close to half (which I suspect is the leak!!)

but I got home, had a look at the clutch pedal and the pedal itself is wet in oil..

I've managed to pick up a bnew cylinder and all that. but is there a tutorial I can follow with regards to replacing it? was told how to do it over the phone, didnt seem too complicated. but everything is obviously easier with pics and such. I was hoping to do it hopefully this coming sunday (by myself) as I need the car running for the gong!!!


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 10:48 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
its not a hard job. Its the easiest of the two master cylinders. Soak the top clutch line nipple in a little penetrene a little while before starting the job to help loosen it up.

There are two nuts holding the master cylinder down, a 1/2 socket on a long 1/4 drive ratchet extension makes these a cinch to remove.

The clutch pedal is held onto the master cylinder by a clevis pin, which needs to be removed. You will need a loooong pair of long nose pliers to make this easier, or you can work upside down under the dash with a shorter pair. Get a good strong torch too. Good idea to have a new split pin ready for the replacement, you will often maul the original removing it.

Once out, check the clevis pin for wear before reinstalling it. A worn clevis will add a lot of play and rattle to the clutch pedal.

Once replaced, bleeding is fairly easy as the line is only short. You shouldn't have an issue with this generally, but if you do post it up here and we'll work through it.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 10:53 pm 
roger that.. thank you. I have a bnew cylinder im picking up tomorrow.

Although I really hope the oil I had leaking on the floor was the clutch fluid and that I dont have to worry about any more leaks for now. lol Will update once I give it a go


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 11:14 pm 
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If you are replacing the master cylinder because of a failed seal it is a good time to replace the slave cylinder seals and the flexible hose as well.
They are all rubber and can all fail at the same rate.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 7:31 am 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
If you are replacing the master cylinder because of a failed seal it is a good time to replace the slave cylinder seals and the flexible hose as well.
They are all rubber and can all fail at the same rate.

Note many of the currently available silver slave cylinders are made wrong. The original cylinders have a plastic spreader inside the cup seal, these new ones don't.
If fitting a new cylinder, pinch the spreader out of your old one.

Personally I have never bought a new slave, I just hone the old one and bung new seals in, with a bit of rubber grease. I keep my spare one on the shelf ready to go.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 8:30 am 
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Quote:
Note many of the currently available silver slave cylinders are made wrong. The original cylinders have a plastic spreader inside the cup seal, these new ones don't.
If fitting a new cylinder, pinch the spreader out of your old one.


I always advise people to put the old plastic spreader in the new slave cylinder
the spreader does not wear out,
in some of the new slave cylinders the spreader is not wide enough so after a while
the seal folds back and then leaks appear
if You do this they will last for years,
I know that You should not have to do this, But this is what happens when things are made to a price
not a standard

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 9:31 am 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Bring it around if you like and we can do the swap. Bring a bottle of metho, not for drinks, but for cleaning and swapping the spreader :)

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 12:09 pm 
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If your lines are still the original ones, they can be a pain to remove. I buggered mine up, and that was using a proper flare nut spanner too (they're pretty cheap to buy - worth getting if you're rebuilding your brakes).

The clevis pin and split pin are the hardest bits to do. I couldn't take out my clevis pin in my brake master cylinder - I had to remove the pedal pivot, remove the MC bolts, lift the pedal up through the firewall as much as possible and take the lower circlip out of the MC. Even when the components are good, you still need to stand on your head in the footwell to see the pins.

I personally wouldn't worry too much about the slave cylinder, but I would do the hose. If the slave cylinder goes later, it's a 5 minute job to replace. The hoses can be fine for decades, but when you disturb them (like putting them back in in a different position) they will usually fail if they are old.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 12:36 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
I picked up a pair of looooong long nose pliers from supercheap about a dozen years ago. They were originally for pulling hooks out of the necks of big barra I wanted to return to the water (Large breeding females). They're about a foot long.

Turns out I used them more for pulling out these damned split and clevis pins since then. Essential piece of kit in my opinion for this job!

Cheap from Supercrap or similar.

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 1:55 pm 
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Mick wrote:
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Also useful when disposing of soiled nappies. :shock:

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 4:50 pm 
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Once you have that wretched split pin out and, for the sake of those that follow, consider fitting a P clip instead of the split pin. Long nose pliers are great for getting the clevis pin in

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 5:03 pm 
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If fitting an R clip make sure it isn't going to catch the edge of the hole when the pedal is pushed down. The R clip can get knocked out.
This is very important with brakes.

I always use a split pin, I don't have any problems getting them out. It is always the 30 to 40 year old ones that give trouble, when the brake and clutch cylinders are removed at regular intervals for rebuilds they come out easily. (plus I am left handed!)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 6:03 pm 
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I agree with M1100. I use a (not too long) split pin and only bend 1 leg. Makes it twice as easy to remove.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 6:24 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
I was going to use a r-clip as well, but had one knock off as I put it in and used the pedal first up...that was enough for me even if I could turn it over the other way. Like Doc I use a new split pin, but don't fold it over so bad out of sympathy for the next guy...who might be me again!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 9:00 pm 
Mick, if the car makes it I may take you up on that offer. lol its losing a little more clutch fluid (although atleast now im sure the leak Im getting is actually clutch fluid not engine oil) so I may just top it up before I head over. Pump the clutch and pray to sweet baby jesus I make it lol


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