When I put some STP on the flywheel taper after lapping it, and before putting the flywheel on, I didn't actually plan on taking the flywheel off any time soon.... but I need to take it off and the B*STARD WON'T F*CKING MOVE!!!

I've had the puller on there 24 hours, the puller plate is 3/4" thick and has a bit over 1/8" bend across the face from how hard its pulling on the flywheel

Alternating heating the flywheel and hitting it in various plates - hopefully it'll be off by Thursday!

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

You must have really got it up there on the taper...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

sure did... only about .5mm from the end of the crank

Don't want to do the same trick as Mick (the other one) and lap the thing beyond seating

it's not my flywheel and my mate wants it back to put on his new motor

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Sime, is it the type of puller with a central rod that you can give a decent whack with a BFH? Often that's what is needed to "crack" binding parts.

But stand back or have something to catch the flywheel when it does let go...

Good Luck

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"Show me the Mini!"

I've heard that you never put any coating on the taper, just leave it dry.

You can tap it through the starter hole or at the crank, but if you do it too hard, you'll be putting pressure on the crank bearings. Not sure how much you could safely give with out damage.

Yes leave it dry.

Hitting through starter hole = bent crankshaft

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

yeah, it is the type with a bolt in the centre - I don't like the idea of hitting the end of the crankshaft, nor hitting the edge of the flywheel - its an ultra light one with hardly any meat around the outside anyway - that said I did have a bit of a tap at it this morning... obviously no effect

I use an early 850 flywheel bolt screwed into the crank and the puller bolt pushes against that, they're 1" longer than standard so no chance of it hitting the floor when it does go.

I had a dream last night that it went *crack* in the middle of the night, so thought that maybe it had come off and integrated with my dream - I was hopeful in the morning, but alas twas just a dream. My mate said he'd dreamt that we'd torn the centre out of my puller...

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

A well known engine builder uses a BFH + thick copper drift held radially, to jar the centre boss of the flywheel. Works for him..

[Puts fitter's hat on]-
I agree the tapers should be assembled dry, use no lube of any sort. Lapping the tapers is good but don't overdo it, and wipe clean with thinners or metho when finished.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I second the idea of hitting the flywheel centre whilst the puller is cranked up tight.

Why no oil or grease on the taper
Is it because when it's tightened up it can slip on further than it should ending in this result?

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Because the 2 tapers form a mechanical joint when assembled and the bolt torqued up tight. The keyed washer is not there to provide drive, it merely locates the flywheel radially re the crank.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I was sure I'd read a post from Matt Read (or someone) saying they greased them sometimes.... it did make sense to me that it'd be a good idea

it obviously works really really well - the motor hasn't been run

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

You do lube parallel press fits to avoid pickup... but usually not tapers.

Back in the mists of time, I was a railways F&M apprentice. I used to machine freight wagon wheels which were press fitted to the axle with a ~ .016" interference fit, on a dirty big horizontal press (wheels not designed to come off without oxy cut). The lube of choice was white lead.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

BFH and copper punch on centre boss whilst under pressure. Its all about shocking it.

There is no reason a little copper grease cant be used on the taper.

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The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
1968 deluxe in the shed
1967 deluxe high strung 1310
1959 austin healey sprite