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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 6:54 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 7:23 am
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Location: Sunny Shine Coast, Qld Australia
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=753191431377283&set=a.197930776903354.55229.192982914064807&type=1&theater

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My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 8:13 am 
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Location: Sandy Bay, Tasmania
That is beautiful (`:

I lost my roll pin once while driving, and was left in 3rd gear in the middle of Hobart. Not fun!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 9:15 pm 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
thats cool, but seems pretty bloody expensive for something that'd be simple to make - its just the sleeve and a couple of machined pins

wonder where you get those spring clips...

edit - just saw how much a replacement sleeve is! the snazzy one is 30 pounds, just the sleeve is 23!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 9:27 pm 
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Why would you need the spring clips when a hose clamp would be more secure?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 9:41 pm 
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simon k wrote:
wonder where you get those spring clips...


http://www.norma.net.au/products/fixing ... -open-type


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 12:39 pm 
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Location: Brisbane
Quick question - on my first mini, I had the pin come out on the way to meet some friends at a game store. I ended up just grabbing a tungsten bolt with a nyloc nut (my buddy had a workvan full of fittings) that fit the hole and just bolted it closed - was that a bad idea?

I've just bought a new (uh... you know what I mean) Morris 1100, just want to know for future reference (in case it happens again).


Edit: By "bolted it closed" I mean that I just replaced the pin with a bolt so it was correctly connected. I used a nyloc nut so that I didn't have to bolt it really rigid either (or worry about it coming undone).


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 2:04 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
The bolt will get the job done, but the raised thread profile doesn't offer the same amount of wear surface, and can either wear out quicker, or the sharp edges can wear out the surrounding metal. It will get you home, but its better to replace the roll pin.

The roll pin also has a tighter tolerance I believe, so will lessen the amount of play you feel at the gearstick end.

The same drama comes up if people use bolts in the place of clevis pins in the brake and clutch systems.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 3:23 pm 
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Location: Brisbane
It wasn't threaded until it cleared the metal pieces, so that's something (no sharp edges for even wear / worn metal, I mean).

I also must have gotten lucky (with the bolt's diameter), because after swapping to the bolt there was less play at the gearstick end (it was that big long wavey kind - I think people refer to it as a "pudding stirrer" here). Though that could just be the result of a worn down loose fitting pin vs a slightly tighter fitting rod.

Still, good to know that if it comes up with the new vehicle that it'll work in a pinch but isn't a really permanent solution (hell, even on the old Clubman it was only in there for at most a couple hundred KMs before I pulled apart the engine and gearbox for a rebuilt and used correct parts).


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