Now that I'm heading back to work, I can start planning on a rebuild for Barney's engine, currently suffering from low oil pressure. I want to put together a shopping list so I can start costing and get some input on what services cost (e.g. block boring, cam grinding etc) and what the best options might be. I'll be switching from twin 1.5" SUs to a 45mm Weber on a short manifold too.

I still plan to use Barney as a daily driver, so I'm not looking for anything crazy-horse wild, but I am looking to produce some more ponies so I can lead from the front at this year's Rylstone Classic!

If you've come across a good deal on any of the following, let me know where....

* New pistons/rings (thinking Hypatec)
* Rebore +40 to 1310 (any suggestions on a Newcastle option here?)
* New bearings (suspect oil pressure is CMBC related)
* Cam grind to something a little lumpier (can I regrind existing or is cheaper/more practical to source new?)
* Oil pump (have heard this a must do in any rebuild).

What else should I be looking at while the front subframe is out?

Thanks!

Evan

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

I am currently using ACL bearings and haven't had any oil pressure issues (still 90psi at full tilt, 50psi idle). If it's CMB then I'd think about getting the crank journals reground first, make sure they are square and tight. Check the CM cap. Consider ARP stud conversion for caps if not already. Buy the bearings later once you know what the crank has been reground to. You'll need small end bearings too which will also change diameter if you get the crank reground. New Rod bolts as well.

Also same with the Pistons, don't go buying 1330cc only to find that you end up boring it to 1360cc etc. Consider Graham's pistons, but they only come in certain sizes: http://www.minis.com.au/minis/catalog/p ... ts_id=1168

Consider getting the block acid dipped. Redistrip used to do it, no idea if there are any around Newcastle though. That may mean removing cam bearings among other things out of the block first and replacing (probably a good thing anyway). Basically any oil gallery or bearing surface needs a look at, else you may end up with the same issue in the end. Particularly the oil pressure relief valve area of the block.

Cam can be reground depending on what grind it is at now. Starting with a new unground cam is always better of course but not entirely necessary if your current cam is pretty lightly ground and not totally wild. Send it to Graham, get an RE83 or RE13. You'll need new lifters, beware of bad lifters (my current issue is one bad tapping lifter), consider buying good quality ones from say MED or Swiftune or something. Spent a little bit more in this area.

Oil pump, get a good pump, consider a turbo oil pump. I have one, never looked back. Buy the right one for your cam drive.
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/E ... 110MS.aspx?

Or have a look at these new Kent Cams oil pumps, they look good: http://www.minisport.com/kenop3-kent-oi ... 275cc.html

Center oil pickup, this can be a problem with the mesh being too fine and having oil starvation issues. Has been talked about a lot by Kev and crew, you need to research this area.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

No need for the turbo oil pump unless it's a turbo motor needing an external oil feed. You are just heating the oil up by sending more oil down through the relief valve.
Good +.040" also +.060" pistons are getting hard to find, shop around first.

Your block is an A+ and when the head was off I think it had factory cylinder liners, so check with the machine shop before boring it out.
Not sure if they will take a +.040" overbore (it's at +.020" now)

ACL bearings are becoming hard to get, I had to settle for some Glyco ones recently. These are aluminium/tin not trimetal.

Cam in it when we had your car was a Wade or Tighe 104. You could probably get it reground, but not to RE83. Need a stock cam to do that one.
Rockers in it are 1.46:1 Corollas so pick a cam that will suit these. RE13 would be good.

It has 33mm Rimflo inlet valves in now, I'd suggest fitting some Mk2S valves (35.6mm)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So I'm looking at having HB Sales here in Newcastle inspect and advise. I have some basic costs so far.

Inspect and diagnose = $180, not payable if they then perform further work.
Bore = $180-200. No problems boring a factory lined 12H the extra +40.
Regrind crank = $220 max.

Was given a figure of circa $3k if they did/sourced everything.

My plan is to have them look at it, diagnose oil pressure culprit, prescribe a parts list, I source, they reassemble.

Taking Doc's advice and upgrading to 35.6mm MK2 inlet valves and Doc/Lillees advice on the RE13 cam. GR has advised $150 for a regrind. I'm starting to get an idea of a potential parts list, but all will likely depend on HB Sale's 'diagnosis' in the next couple of months.

Out of my depth here...

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

Progress so far:


- Decided on rebore to 1310

- Decided on RE13 cam grind from GR (275 duration .290 lift)

- Decided on fitment of 45mm Weber on 3.5" manifold (minimal firewall modification/shallow box fab/speedo binnacle pushed back an inch or 2 on blocks)


The shopping list...

I've built a random cart with Minis Plus to get a rough idea of costs. Jump in and tell me how far off the mark I am with specs. Looking for max grunt + optimum daily drivability.


- Conrod (Big End) Bearing Set 850-998-1100-1275 040" o/s $59.00

- Main Bearing Set 1275 A+ 030" o/s $84.95

- 1275 73mm dish top 9.75:1 Russell Engineering performance pistons $375.00

- Gasket Set Block or short motor Gasket Set Block or short motor $29.99

- Oil Seal Primary gear 13h2934 (clutch) $8.00

- Gasket Set Gearbox All models $24.95

- Gasket Set -Head 1275 (VRS)Copper h/g $64.95

- Gasket Timing cover to 78 12a956 $4.90

- Valve Inlet 1275 Cooper S mk11 1.401" flow bench tested Race ser $79.80

- Lifter set performance ISKY style c/aeg580 $89.95

- Valve guide suits all engines and uses cooper s valve seals 12g $39.20

- Valve stem seal Cooper S umbrella style with spring adu4905 $10.40

- Weber "Softmount" Kit DCOE $23.95

- Oil Pump - 1275 A+ Late Model ahu1048 $45.00

- Racing Aluminum Radiator 2 core 40mm $129.89 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/350619736927

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I'm thinking of swapping the 3.647 diff for 3.44 for more comfortable cruising. Thoughts?

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

Those 73mm pistons are too big (+.094"), they will give you 1360cc not 1310.
Minisport SA still has +.040" 9.75:1 Hypatecs showing on their website.. but I'd hurry if you want some.

If you cannot find good +.040" pistons I have a new set of +.030" Hypatecs with rings, 9.75:1, these would go well in your A+ factory sleeved bores. Will give 1301cc.

[edit] conrod bearings- you listed A series, but you have A+ rods in there so need A+ bearings... they are 1/8" bigger.
[I know this because we used to own the car]
Get the crank journal sizes checked & reground if needed, BEFORE you buy bearings.

[edit 2] Stay away from the copper head gaskets, they have been crap since they took the asbestos out years ago.
Stick to a BK450 composition gasket (like what it's got now).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.