At Kc they are $31.65 for the ball bearing and $66 for the Timken ones, but I'd need to do both the front ones if I got the tapered ones I'm guessing.

From memory when I did the front bearings last year there were no bearing spacers supplied or remaining from the old bearings. I got them from Kc.

The GHK1018 from Minispares says:

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Ball bearings now come with a built-in 1/2 spacer each.

Kc also carries the noname tapered rollers, they are cheaper than Timkens and work OK as long as you check the preload as I said. However I found their spacer widths were often not right (no prob to me as I have a spacer collection, and a lathe too).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I can't remember what brand my bearings were, but I had some pre-load problems on assembling my hubs. I assembled one and it was fine (maybe a bit loose) and then the next one I didn't even need to torque up before it was binding. I swapped the spacers and all was good. But goes to show that they're not all made equal.

The last option is that when the mechanic re-did them (because they came assembled incorrectly and I didn't pick that up) he used a different type of grease to what I had already used. Seeing as all the grease tubs say not to mix them, it might have caused the problem?

I got a new bearing today and I'll hopefully get it sorted out this weekend, and I'll check the right front one to make sure it's still greased up ok.

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I got the replacement bearing in fine this afternoon, but the wheel didn't spin very well when jacked up. It would only do about a 1/4 of a turn before stopping. The rubber cross joint was also making a funny noise. It seemed to be a bit "notchy" so I pulled the rubber cross off. There isn't much rubber left where the U-bolts go. I assume this means they are due for replacement?


I've got an old set of the roller bearing ones too (they turned up in a fish and chip box labelled "Riley")

Would it be worth getting a set of these instead of the rubber ones?
http://www.7ent.com/products/u-joint-to ... j0102.html

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The roller bearing ones are better in my opinion. Just make sure you have pleanty of clearance for them. The rubber ones tend to break down.

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Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

You can reuse the plastic cups and buy new uni joints to fit in them.

It would be nice to get rid of the rubber ones and fit something a bit more modern. The overall length of it is a bit less than the rubber, so it should fit in ok.

Luckily I have all the plastic cups, U-bolts and nuts!

I've done a bit of digging and it seems that GUJ102 from a Triumph TR6 is the same as these ones. I've sent an email off to KC to see if they have any..

K5-L4R from Hardy Spicer is supposed to work too.

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You should be able to get the triumph joint from most automotive suppliers, probably some bearing companies as well.

Yep, more than likely. It's quite nice for an unusual part to have a reference for a relatively common one! If Karcraft has them in stock they should be at my door Tuesday, which beats hitting up a few shops down here to see who has them/can order them in.

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Karcraft just emailed me back... GKN UK brand ones are $17.00

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New Triumph joints went in fine. They're significantly lighter than the rubber crosses too. The wheel spins very nicely now with it installed. I've got to clean up the threads on the other set of u-bolts before I can install the other side


The needle bearings came greased up already, I assume they won't need regressing by me? They don't have the grease nipple like some of them do..

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$17 is a bargain.

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Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

Yep, much better than $45-55 for another rubber cross joint.

Seeing as the old rubber joint was that worn, and had that much resistance to turning, it's possible it might be the cause of the wheel bearings heating up?

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