Does the K.A.D Quick-shift gear lever really make much of a difference?

How does it work exactly?

It increases the distance between the bottom pivot and the top pivot - which reduces the throw

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That certainly makes sense - cheers

Is it worth forking out $245 for? Or is it more for the bling factor?

I had one and ditched it after about 50 kays.
Too hard to find reverse, and the gears would grind when changing sometimes too.

Wanna sell it?

Same as Harley. Looks good but mine contributed to wear on a gear in the box. I had to get the box rebuilt as a result. I'm sticking with the std lever from now on.

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"Beware the lollipop of mediocrity: lick it once and you'll suck forever" Brian Wilson

My box had a rebuild shortly after too! Syncros were knackered.
The rebuilder pulled it apart and said "you had a quickshift in here didn't ya?"

Thank you for the warning guys I might stick with the standard stick!

Ive got one in my supercharged mini and it is quite difficult to change 2nd to 3rd. The one I had in my 1275LS was brilliant but cant comment on the long term effects.

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1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S

As said shortens the throw, which can be an asset if your big fat leg keeps bumping it in fourth.. Name is a misnomer, not supposed to be quick at all,,
it just changes the angles/pivot. So , I see a few potential problems ( highly subjective and unproven thoughts)

a) the angle changes are just not quite right (highly possible given the individual differences in minis, and this might contribute to wear...

b) more common in my opinion, using it to shift quickly and causing synchro wear.

c) the angle/pivot change will exacerbate any existing slop... so could speed up the already intrain

I have a rod change one that works fine, even lifting into reverse If it wasn't for my peeve at constantly knocking it when in fourth i would stick with original.-

please note i think this applies to 'quickshifters in general" don't really know if KAD or minispares etc are better/ worth more etc

I don't believe in them for a remote box, the shift is already shorter than that on a rodchange.
The only `quickshift' I have used and liked was a KAD one on a rodchange box. It was sweet, however many others I've driven over the years were a pita.

IMO if you want a good quickshift, make an Oz one- just cut the bloody lever shorter and bend it back a bit... less grief and no parts to buy.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ha ha.... Great idea

I've run a quick shift in my race car for at least 10 years and I love it. The gearstick is physically taller and is right where I want it and the short throws are also how I like it. It did take getting used to, did mess the 2 - 3 change a few times before I got used to it. I don't run a reverse lock-out and that would solve the 2 - 3 change. As for accelerated wearing of the synchros, not experienced this at all, tho the synchros do cope a hiding in use and I replace when doing a refresh.. I can't see how the quick shift would contribute to accelerated wear of the synchros, unless the gearstick was hung onto, but that would also happen if the std gearstick was hung onto.

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Steve

Steve you can fix the 2-3 change on a remote (or magic wand) without a reverse lock, just fit a red die spring to the reverse detent in place of the stock one.
The hole inside it is a bit smaller, you just need to grind the tit diameter on the detent plunger down a bit.
[edit] won't work with a reverse switch fitted, unless you make a smaller diameter switch actuating plunger.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Kev, where do I get one of these red die springs?

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Steve