No

I would start by crack testing your preferred crank, and get someone knowledgeable to look closely for wear on tail etc.

Spin the crank in a lathe and use some 180-220 wet/dry + WD40 on the tail, you will be surprised how well it comes up.
Then try the flywheel on it. If it doesn't rock about and it sits 2mm approx past the crank tail, it will be fine once you lap it on.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

After five months of procrastination I finally got some motivation from Rodney (Boomini) and my build is underway. I've gone with the .06 over bored block which I've had chemically dipped and the bores honed. The head has been fully reconditioned with new value stems and the oversized valves seated, the crank has been balanced along with the flywheel. The pistons have been press fitted to the rods and balanced. The cam is from Wade Cam with the 104 profile.

I purchased $2000 worth of various parts including bearings, push rods, cam follower, timing chain, copper head gasket, a CNC rocker with roller tips, oil pump, .06 Hypertec pistons and Hasting rings, VHT paints (primer, bright red & clear coat) to list the items I can remember!

I realised after doing my research doing my first engine build myself was going to be far too hard so with the help of Rodney (who I now refer to as BME - BooMini Engineering) I'm underway and by help I mean Rodney is doing it all and I'm annoying the crap outta him with a thousand questions per minute!

Progress to date:


Today the pistons were fitted only to find they protruded beyond the block by .68mm so a mad dash back to the machine shop (Performance Modification - Osbourne Park) and with .035 skimmed off the pistons take two of fitting the pistons will occur in the morrow

Watch this space for updates

Stop jumping between metric and imperial marty... its confusing.

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The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
1968 deluxe in the shed
1967 deluxe high strung 1310
1959 austin healey sprite

Haha, doesn't bother me at all, I'm binumeric. I did my apprenticeship in the mid 60s.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Today's progress;

Got the pistons fitted this time with a .22mm recess between top of piston and top of the block



New head bolts fitted, then a nice shinny copper head gasket, head lowered into position and then the new rocker. Work got in the way and we had to stop for the day!

Looking pretty sweet marty.
When the pistons are machined down, are they spun in a lathe or is done with a mill? I was told its a cheap way to get higher compression on a 1098 by using 998 pistons with the top taken off.

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Be careful doing this, common 998 pistons are not real thick on top and the top ring land will be weakened too.
Pistons are usually faced off in a lathe.
There is .148" height difference between the two. It's a lot to take off....
New 1098 pistons are cheap these days.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My local machine shop put them on a lathe ($80 for all four same day service )

As for taking the top off 998 pistons I think Drmini makes a very valid point 1098 piston are cheap enough why go to extra expense or time of getting 998 chopped? In fact, a quick look on Minisport in Adelaide the Hypertec 998, 1100 and 1275 pistons in all over bores are the same $199 with rings! Maybe 1100 skimmed flat will increase compression buy by how much? Plus you'd need to deck the block to bring them inline with the piston and by doing that you'll loss CC's in the cylinders!

Also, from experience trying to do anything cheap on a Mini always bite you on the butt and ends up costing more!




P.S. Thank you it's coming together well so far and looking very sweet

Or you could just buy flat top 1100 pistons to start with and save yourself the trouble?

Your engine is looking good, bet you can't wait to get it back together!

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Today was a case of divide and conquer due to work commitments! I took home the gearbox which I cleaned out using WD-40, this gearbox was rebuilt just a few years ago with all new bearings, gears and rings and has done very few K's since. Once clean I gave it several coats of black high temp paint. Rodney painted the block and head with a few coat of primer followed by a bright red VHT paint. Once gearbox and block are together I'll give it a clear coat for that nice shiny look. The rocker cover I did years ago and it sat on my old motor!






Once complete there will be lots of shiny chrome bits bolted on as well

Looks very smart. And then we go and drive them through the mud!

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Fingered crossed it runs as good as it will look!

Here's a tip-
Fit the gearbox onto the motor, not the other way around.
The box is lighter, and you can see the 2 dowels better to guide it on straight.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.