Okay, so the mini's on the road but not sure why the clutch pedal is so low. The engine's a Metro 1275 with the clutch off the original 1100, slave cylinder etc.

The clutch only just disengages when the pedal pushed into the carpet.

What should I look to do to remedy this?

TIA, Simon aka Angusdog

Hi Simon
First try the clutch with out carpet fitted. If that fixes it cut the carpet to clear.

Make sure all the clevis pins have no slope in them

Make sure the clutch is bleed and adjusted correctly

If all else fails extend the master cylinder push rod by 7mm.

Check the adjusting screw on the clutch cover (wok)
Should be about 20thou or a bit less or extend the clutch slave cylinder rod if the adjustment is OK
Could also be the master or slave cylinder need an overhaul?

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Get an attractive assistant to sit in the car and slowly push down on the clutch pedal while you look in the engine bay. Watch for movement - as soon as you see the clutch slave cylinder push rod moving, check how far down the pedal is. If you are a long way down, it's either the master or slave cylinder, or the clevis that attaches the pedal.

Keep pushing the pedal down until the clutch arm start moving. If there is a lot of travel between the slave cylinder moving and the clutch arm moving, you may need a new clutch arm clevis pin.

Then keep pushing further. If there much movement at all between the clutch arm moving and the clutch plunger (that supports the release bearing and attaches to the clutch arm) then either your plunger or clutch arm are worn.

This is assuming that your clutch is property set up to start with. I don't know the value of the top of my head, but the clutch arm should only be just a tiny distance from the stop screw at rest (maybe 10 thou?). Wind the stop screw out until it hits the clutch arm, make sure the clutch arm is as far to the left as possible, then wind it back in a little.

Hope this helps.

Edit: Fixed for you!

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Thanks for the advice. In theory it should adjust automatically, no? Like disk brakes? Anyway, I pulled the pedal up and heard some fluid gurgling from the master cylinder and I've got 1cm more travel so the gears don't graunch any more but it's not right. When I get a mo' (Ha!) I'll heed the advice above, starting with bleeding it again.

No, the clutch needs to be adjusted manually, it won't automatically increment itself up as there is a spring pressure at the top of the arm returning the lever.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.