I'm still a newbie at this home mechanic stuff so please forgive the stupid question?

Grease, what's the difference and can you mix it?

I'm replacing the front wheel bearing and I've noticed several grease nipples for various joints. I have a suitable grease gun loaded with Lubri-Matic Multi Purpose Lithium Grease. Do I need to know what grease has been used before or can I just latch on to the nipple and start pumping?

Cheers

P.S. Dear Moderators, would it be possible to set up a 'Stupid Questions' chat room?

That grease will work fine on all the grease nipples. Note there are 2 more at the back, 1 on each trailing arm shaft.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cheers.

I've found three each side. Is that it or are there two more?

3 each side at front.
1 each side at back.
A few more on the remote gearbox linkage (not on rodchange box linkage)

[edit]
The front nipples do not grease the knuckle joints in the top arms. You can do this with a grease needle, put 1 gun shot through the rubber boot.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thank you once again.

One more question! The final castle type nut was only finger tight after I pulled split pin out. How tight should it go back on? Finger tight or what sort of torque?

Thank you once again.

One more question! The final castle type nut was only finger tight after I pulled split pin out. How tight should it go back on? Finger tight or what sort of torque?

If it has drum brakes, 60 ft/lb then tighten to the next pin hole.
If disc brakes, 150ft/lb then tighten to the next pin hole.

[edit] spin the hub by hand after tightening, if it's lumpy to turn, you have a wear problem in there with the hub, drive flange or bearings.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

P.S. No Stupid Question forum is really needed.

Its true that a question asked is something more than one might need to know; and
A "stupid" question is relative only. No question is beneath anyone to answer if they have the right attitude.

otherwise we'd all be going to workshops and paying 100 dollars per hour for silly answers...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Cheers, it's disk brakes. That would certainly explain why grease was leaking. I undid the nut with my fingers only!

Cheers Mick, me not feel so silly now

I used Moly grease on my new ball joints, I think it is better for the low speed/high load stuff. It's used on most car ball joints as far as I know, they don't need much grease anyway.
Regular EP lithium bearing grease goes in Susanna's worn rear trailing arms, as they seem to want a lot of grease and It's cheaper for me than Moly (I have bearing grease in bulk)

I have hi temp bearing grease with a target price tag on the tin try buying it at target now

My first 2 tool kits came from there as well in the early 90s still using them spanners and sockets today shame they dont sell it now

Huge thank you to Drmini your advise today was gold as I was working on the wheel bearings. Just been for a three hour test drive

In my profession there is no such thing as a "stupid question".

Only "stupid mistakes" from not asking the "stupid question"!

Cheers Shane

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If it's not a Cooper S, the mini was designed to be modified!

Ha ha.... Thanks Shane I'm feeling smarter by the moment