http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Morris- ... 0581881407

I want to pull the alloy radiator out of my 68 MK1 S and put in an original. I was given an old original and took it to the radiator shop. They took it apart, said it was no good, charged me $65- and handed it back to me in two parts! Should I keep looking or just buy a new one of these? Will this require mods to fit shroud properly? I don't want to stuff around with the shroud and end up cutting that up too. Should I keep trying with old originals? Thanks.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

Don't buy that one because:
1. It is only 8 gills/inch not 16 like original Oz one.
2. The frame is flimsy, they come off the body at the top very easily.
I had one and the frame came apart in under a month.

If you must buy a UK one, get Minispares super 2 core. Also available here from Karcraft and others.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc (again). Are all the original OZ ones the same or is there a different one for the Cooper S? Might have to put this in the wanted section. I wonder if this one is better? Description says 3 core 16 gills/inch.

http://www.minisport.com/arp1105-radiat ... -core.html

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

This one:
https://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=38044

Or from Karcraft with the same part no. for $231.41. I've got one and it's great! Fits in with no modifications

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I was told that the bolts that hold the shroud onto the new radiators are larger.
Only an issue if you want to go concourse.

All Oz radiators were the same being the higher gill per inch ones because of the hotter local conditions. Yay for us.

I have two good radiators here. I really only want one for a hot spare. If you have trouble finding one locally, then you can have one of these.

I have a tough time believing radiator shops sometimes. They would prefer to sell you a new one for 300 dollars than spend the time rodding your own one out. Maybe not in your case, but I have had a few lean on me for perfectly fine radiator cores...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

All Oz Mini radiators were much the same- 3 core 16 gills, from Mini Deluxe & Cooper S on, ~1965. Top tanks changed during the Clubby era.
I think the early 850 & Cooper ones may have less gills, they did have a different top tank. Check your 997 one, Mick.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The 997 is a poor choice in this case, I put an early tank top onto a later radiator
There was too much mechanical damage to the early core to use...

I had heard that Doc but haven't seen one to date, but I haven't dabbled much in super early cars.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Thanks for all the advice and if I have no luck I will be in touch thanks Mick.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

Flute.. Why don't you just get it recored?

I take it they went to clean it out/rod it and it was found to be no good.
Surely your tanks were ok though?

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Last time I got a quote for a recore it was nearly $400. And that was from a local repairer, not the `big chain' radiator burglars...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Its it feasible/worthwhile to put original top and bottom tanks onto a modern radiator?

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

The messge above is incomplete. Ddid you mean onto a new replacement radiator?

If so, Yes I had to do this, it worked fine with the lead solder filling the slight gap difference without a problem.

The gills per inch are lower on the new ones, but did not prove to be a problem on the 998 it went onto.

The cowling screws are larger metric metal thread screws. They really stand out on the front side if you are doing a resto, but are really strong at the same time. You won't strip the captive nut out easily.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Same $400 from the blokes on the gwh in st marys to recore and thats if they could find a core

Cheaper to buy new

The problem with mine one was the core was apparently no good and the gills had been damaged beyond repair in sections and so it wasn't going to look much good either. Happy to buy a new one but not if it requires modifying the cowling because I am trying to go more original not less which is why I am pulling out the perfectly fine alloy one. This one has the 3 core with 16 gills/inch but not sure if it is going to last or if it requires any mods.
http://www.minisport.com/arp1105-radiat ... -core.html
A good original that gets reconditioned might be what I am after.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club