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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 9:28 am 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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I received feedback from Accuspark last night stating that the unit is rated for a 1.5 Ohm coil. I will pick up a better coil to suit the capability in the next few days.

And the tacho work fine, the remaining current passing through the points (now acting as crank angle sensor) is more than enough to work the original inductive Smiths tacho.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 11:12 am 
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Would it work OK with a conventional (ie later type) tacho?
[edit] Mick, I mean with an electronics module, NOT points..

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Last edited by drmini in aust on Wed Nov 20, 2013 2:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 11:26 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Would it work OK with a conventional (ie later type) tacho?
[edit] Mick, I mean with an electronics module, NOT points..


I use an electronic module in the 29D, and it works fine.
I can't see why a modern tacho wouldn't work, but there is a chance an unloaded switched points may induce some ringing. If you send me one down Kev I can try it out if you like.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 5:10 pm 
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Word from the manufacturer is that the module can switch down to 1.5 Ohms, with the standard coil value of 3.0 Ohms working just fine. The word is to be careful. If the module goes short on a few turns of windings through age or damage, it won't take much to damage the output mosfet in the the module. I think with the access to the board however, that this is one unit I could personally fix.

Bosch SU12R coils measure up at 1.7 Ohms, so leave a small margin. I've fitted one in and it works fine.

Image


Two items I've found with the Blackbox.

First, when using realtime, the value of advance given in the box is half the actual value. (The value below should be ten for instance)

Image

Secondly, when inserting your own curve, the value of dwell and timing (at the half value in the information box) must add up to be less than 90 Why? I don't know... but for the given default value of 75.5% dwell plus half the requested timing (30 deg), that equals 90.5 and will be rejected by the module. So one must either drop the dwell or the timing to comply.... I dropped dwell to 74 degrees to make the standard required...

I am sure this must be to do with the breakdown of the timing period adding up to 90 degrees of a 360 degree rotation of the distributor.

Image

I've set the curve now to something more useable, and I took it on a long drive this afternoon up in the hills. In particular there is a very looooong hill just near my place which a lot of Canberrans will know of on the way out to Bungendore. I like to go through the gears up to fourth and test the torque as I accelerate from about 60 and up. The curve I am now using is more appropriate for my car and cam, and I definitely noted that the part and open throttle acceleration is definitely stronger. Not the fault of the blackbox, but the curve I was previously using. The blackbox allowed me to make a better choice is all.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 7:41 pm 
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Location: Sydney - strangely, I am glad of the sight of hills!!
how many points on the curve??

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 7:43 pm 
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Anywhere up to seven. The number of boxes on the left of the graph is your limit.

RPM UP sets the rev limiter.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 9:17 pm 
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Is there a maximum rev limit?

Was told that some 123 models have a hard limit of 8000rpm. basically they can't put advance in after 8000.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 9:41 pm 
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I've just had a go at putting advance in above 8k, and like you said the program brings up a text box stating the range is 0 to 8000. Its not the processor speed, 8k with two sparks required per cycle is only 266 Hz...

And it will accept any RPM limit you want to try. I went up to 11k.

Given the timing doesn't actually go to zero after this point, it could be possible it holds the last known value. I can have a go tomorrow at creating a curve that ends at 2k, and see what it does with the timing after that. I'll let you know.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:04 pm 
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How are you find this now Mick

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:19 pm 
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Its still going just fine Gaf. Its got a few miles under it now and it's doing what it is supposed to.

I forget its there actually. :)

cheers

Mick

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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 9:57 pm 
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Mick, the 2nd diagram shows only the <-> wire to the dizzy. I suppose the dizzy's red wire (if using an electronic module) still goes to <+> on the coil?

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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 9:59 pm 
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Yes, no change to the red wire to the +ve side of the coil.

The module is simply a switch now with little to no load going through it.

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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 10:03 pm 
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Mick wrote:
Yes, no change to the red wire to the +ve side of the coil.

The module is simply a switch now with little to no load going through it.


If you leave the ignition on for a few minutes it can fry some cheap (and not so cheap!) ignition modules. So, can we do this safely now?

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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 10:07 pm 
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I haven't tried this one out like that Kev, but now the 3 ohm ohm load is replaced with something else within the module, probably much lower in load and therefore heat.

I would suggest yes, for the module, but it is still possible the box is drawing load through the coil now. I wouldn't want to test it out deliberately :)

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PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2014 9:10 am 
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I'll be using it with a Pulsar D4R85 dizzy, with the vac advance removed and the top plate locked.

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