You could go back to the stock dizzy in time. The need for the pulsar dizzy would be removed (except for the water resistance aspects).

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I've got 2 Pulsars, so I'll just mod the spare one.
[edit] I also have a spare 43/45D with Vizard's roller bearing shaft mod. I've ordered a module from SimonBBC so I may use that instead of altering the already advance curve modded Pulsar.

Points work yes, but they give more spark scatter, and need periodic adjustment. Also they can bounce at high rpm (over 6500) with the crappy points they sell now.

With the cam's belt drive kit and Pulsar dizzy, my ignition timing doesn't vary in 12 months...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That's true.

With the module in the 29D you rebuilt for me, I've never seen such surgically precise timing!

With no sideload on the dizzy, and locked (or removed) weights, then the bearings should last a lifetime of use.
It will be a nice change.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Just had a quick look for whether a vacuum set up is available. it seems they supply dizzy of that type with mechanical advance locked out. i presume you can set the vac advance? or does the vac just work as before independently? i didn't see vac on Micks dizzy , so this one is open to others,

The vac advance will still work, if you have it. But these days, who knows if it's correct, there were various vac cans used on the different Lucas dizzies and fuels are different now too.

It's funny how when ADR27A came in, they did away with vac advance on both the 998 and 1275 motors here.... so I guess it was bad for emissions.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Umm, the only 1275 mini that met ADR27A was the 1275LS and it had vacuum advance.

Ah well my bad.. but I've had a whole heap of 43/45D dizzys with no vac fitment, so what Mini did they come out of?? 1098s all had a 29D, didn't they?:?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Vacuum seems to be a "black art" were they specced at a level of HG originally? - or just wnough to move the spring weights? (just coincidentally i was looking over weber manifolds and in my small collection there are about 5 different size servo/vacuum takes offs - no standard for servo and slight differences in a couple for vacuum- although 4mm seems common but inner diameter vary.... apart from holley lads and ladies knowing when their secondaries should kick in, i don't know of facts and figures , I do think that the economy with vacuum would be of assistance at part loads but seems a bit of a mystery to start with and as doc says after 40 years who knows what exactly is going on.?

From my InterEurope Mini manual- some examples for Oz produced Minis:
7Hg-13Hg, 5 deg,
7Hg-11Hg, 8deg,
4Hg-15Hg, 11deg,
3Hg-9Hg, 8deg, (1098)
7Hg-13Hg, 8deg,
7Hg-12Hg, 8deg, (998)
3Hg-10Hg, 7deg (998 auto)
3Hg-8Hg, 7deg (998 Cooper HC)
4Hg-7Hg, 8deg (998 Cooper HC, late)
5Hg-17Hg 10 deg (1098)
etc etc

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thanks doc

Note these vac cans are not simply connected into the manifold like a servo is.
The suction point is very near the throttle plate on SUs.
I have yet to see anybody successfully hook a dizzy's vacuum can to a sidedraft Weber or Dellorto, due to the shock pulses in the intake runners. I'm not saying it ain't possible, but...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi,
I have has one of these on my race engine for tuning purposes for the last 12 months... it is great and on the dyno we were able to try a bunch of different curves in a short time. (Read saved me a bucket of money!)

I bought the full dizzy with the electronic trigger. Easily fitted and worked without fault.

The only problem we had was that updating the curve 'live' while the engine was running was difficult and would fail regularly.
So we would shut the engine down... make the changes to the curve just with the ignition on and then fire the engine up again...

My engine builder loved it.. very easy to use and set and we ended up with quite a wild curve that you would have never tried in a mechanical advance.

The rev limiter is REALLY handy.... I am really surprised how often I seem to find it

Also the guys at Accuspark were really helpful with wiring and working out dwell I needed etc. I must admit I know more about how advance curves, dwell and spark duration work now than I probably wanted to!


Minimad

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You can take the boy out of the racer.........but not the racer out of the boy!

im kind of keen for this... no idea what dizzy i have on my engine though... i want to use it for a turbo set up that is taking way too long to get sorted, suitable?

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

The model number is stamped into the side of the dizzy, under all the road grime...

If it's a 29D (Oz made) I'd get something else instead, as 29D rotors and caps are reputedly NLA now.

I like the 45D, they seem to wear less than the 29D and parts are easy to get.
Bung a module in it from simonBBC and no more points adjustment.

http://www.simonbbc.com/electronic-igni ... butor-mini

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm no expert but you'd need some sort of boost retard system for a turbo set up wouldn't you?

This kit looks great for a nat aspirated engine but I reckon a boosted one needs something with a MAP sensor in it.

M