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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 9:47 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I use these magnets on my spin-on filters, they work great to catch all the fine stuff that goes around the filtration system.
I didn't know if they would work on the thick steel of a canister/cartridge filter.

So today I put a magnet onto a filter can and dropped some iron filings inside.
Note the filings were not dry, they were swarf from around my vice.
Yes it seems to work, here are the pics:


Image

Image

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 9:50 am 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Wouldn't want to see that on a running engine :)

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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 9:58 am 
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1275cc
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Nice work. For the low cost I will stick some on my filter housing. Is the Gauss rating more important than the Pull rating?


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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 10:05 am 
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Do the spin on filters work better than the cartrige type?

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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 10:10 am 
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I use a 20dia x 10mm one or a 25dia x 10mm.
They need to be rare earth Neodymium, not ferrite.

This would do-
http://magnet.com.au/321/rare-earth-disc-22mm-x-10mm

Spin-on filters have less filter area, but seem to work fine. The same one is used on a Toyota Corolla or a 350 Chev.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 9:13 pm 
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1098cc
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Wonder what would happen if you wrapped the cartridge filter around with thin sponge like a mower with a paper flat air filter it has a pre filter sponge in front of it most hondas and most b&s quantum motors have them


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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 9:23 pm 
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Low oil pressure and run bearings once its all clogged up.


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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 9:27 pm 
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1098cc
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Ok


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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 11:34 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2013 9:09 pm
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Location: Cairns
Hi Guys
I have run magnets either in (cartridge)or on (spin on) filters for years, while they always collect some very fine particles I don't believe they do much to prolong engine life as much as an extra sump plug in the pickup plate on the back of the gearbox.( I think you can still buy them) some guys don't like them but if cleaned each filter change I have had no issues over the last 30 years.
One of the main problems with the mini/moke is the gear train debris passing through the oil pump causing scoring. In saying that I have seen some real bad oil pumps that still gave good pressure.

For best engine life use a good correct brand oil and filter and change it every 5000km/3 months. Most common filters are 25 microns 0.025mm almost undetectable on its own by eye. Remember when filter flow is reduced the pressure build up causes the bypass valve to open allowing unfiltered oil to pass (not ideal).
For decades aircraft engines only ran a screen mesh filter that was cleaned every service, if regular oil changes where carried out these engine made tbo with little oil pressure issues.
Both older car and motorbike engines also ran fine mesh, fine brass mesh was common.

what ever you can do to reduce debris in the oil without reducing flow/volume or quality can only help the lovable A series.

Its the oils job to lubricate, clean and cool the engine, debris is suspended in the oil not just the filter. Also if you have a oil cooler, engine wear can be increased if the oil cannot reach the correct operating temp to burn off some of the impurities.

Hope this helps

Darren


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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2014 8:15 am 
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I had the Minispares pre-pump magnet on my 1310S for a little while, it clogged up with debris and was starving the pump, before the 1st oil change... so I took it out. I'll never refit it.
It's also in a bastard of a spot if running an LCB.

Since fitting magnets to the spin-on filter I find very little gets trapped on the sump plug magnet.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2014 9:38 am 
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848cc
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Location: Cairns
As I said they are not loved by all, they are also not all made the same. Some are to long.
You are correct that with some extractors, space is limited but its a mini so that's pretty standard :-)
If you are getting enough metal debris to block a 9/16'' hole is 5000km/3 months wow.
But as I said in my first comments its the oil and filter that do most of the work so change them regularly.
You can buy proper filter magnet raps from a performance shop that way covering the whole outer canister with magnets.

As always use what you are happy with that's one of the best things about choice and freedom.
D


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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2014 12:46 pm 
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You can also buy a Magnom? (sp) magnetic thingy that screws onto the filter housing, above the filter. But they are not cheap, and every time you change a filter you need to clean the bugger and refit it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2014 5:49 pm 
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998cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
I use a 20dia x

Spin-on filters have less filter area, but seem to work fine. The same one is used on a Toyota Corolla or a 350 Chev.


You can buy spin ons in different lengths...so some will have (a lot) more filter area than others...

Cheers, Ian


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