I got the black box today. As there's sfa room under my bonnet I'll stick it under the dash like Mick did.
I don't own a Windows laptop, so the wife's old AMD Sempron desktop is now shoved into the garage shelving, with a USB extension lead.

[edit] Thinking about how this thing advances the spark event electronically, surely if the spindle & rotor arm are fixed, as advance is added it will tend to spark before the leading edge of the rotor? ie well before the rotor is pointing at the spark plug wire contact?
I'll be running 38deg total advance, and am wondering if this will be a problem...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Are you going to run a rotor button similar to the 23D. The ones with a bent arm on the end.

Well, the simon BBC module just has a straight end.
The last time I saw a curved end Mini rotor was on my old 850, a 25D4 dizzy which had the manual adjustment screw on there. I doubt that rotor would fit a 45D??

I can start the Stealth curve at 10deg BTDC static instead of zero, that would help.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

38 at the fly wheel is 19 at the rotor, I've not measured it but I'm guessing the stock button must cover a 30deg span.

One of the simonbbc types of modules removed the need for a specialised button by making a seperate reluctor ring which fits over the points cam. Leaving you open to any choice of button. Tge one for the 29d is like this.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I didnt think there was any difference in the mount point for the buttons, just the shape of the copper and the height??

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Stock 45D rotor button, the spark point on it doesn't move with centrifugal advance, because the cam or reluctor moves round with the rotor as it advances. Regardless of advance point it sparks off the end.
This won't happen with the Stealth box, because the dizzy shaft is now fixed top to bottom. The spark will happen before the reluctor ring spark signal. (is done by black magic or something. My head doesn't understand how, same as it doesn't do calculus..)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Kev, please post your thoughts on any performance, running improvements.

I have been playing with the dizzy cam and springs with good results. This seems like a much better idea.

Kiwiinwgtn

Don't know if i am following. Doc when you say locked , i am thinking mechanical advance pushed forward as far is it goes and then tied, but it still moves doesn't it,,, kind of like the blank cams in a 16v KAD mini providing the rotation but then the electrics advance retard etc based on a reference to the original timing???

Nope the advance is tied back in min advance position with SS wire, see Micks pics on p1 of thread.
Nothing moves. It is physically fixed, both the dizzy and the top & bottom halves of the spindle.
What happens is the spark gets advanced electronically BEFORE the electronic module outputs a spark.
It's like Dr Who... the box is a Tardis.
Best analogy I can find is a dialback timing light.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yup, it grabs the pulse, holds onto it, and then allows the pulse to continue to the coil after a calculated time period.
It modifies it as well for the dwell period, the amount of time the coil is allowed to gather a charge.

The dizzy is now just a simple metronome, and the box plays the tune based based on the tempo.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

okay now pictures of the tardis and metronomes in my head .... are they small people who drive a not well liked mini variant? metro gnomes....... will be interested in seeing this tested against the dial back strobe to confirm it plays nice under all conditions. Does the black box or nodiz then ignore the reluctor ring signal? so is it suitable for 45d?

I am not an electronics bod and a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, but- I believe it takes the reluctor ring signal, performs witchcraft then uses that signal for the next cylinder to fire. It knows the next pulse will come in 90 dizzy degrees because you told the box it's a 4 cylinder.
I cannot see how it can do otherwise because the #1 spark (if advanced) occurs before the #1 reluctor ring signal has been given.

[edit] Dizzy (43D) is now modded, black box is installed, I'm just waiting for the dizzy's electronic module to fly here from UK.

[edit 2] I bought a new `Lucas' dizzy cap for it this week, that's another item I suspect has poor quality now.
There is 1.5mm clearance between the inside of the cap and the location ring on the dizzy. The rotor hits the plug lead lugs unless you centre the cap with your fingers...
Nope it's not the dizzy, I have 3x 43Ds here and all measured the same diameter.
Now I need to find a NOS (not NNS) cap....
[edit 3] I bought 2 others, but these have almost 1.0mm diametral clearance on the body.
I had to take .010" off the end of the new red rotor so it would clear even these caps.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Keep us posted Doc, I'm seriously considering this for my next build. Once the body's done

I now have 2 new caps that fit a bit better, and the spark module has showed up from UK.
I needed to pack the module up 2.0mm and trim the rotor height 1.8mm, because this particular 43D dizzy has a very tall cam in it! But it should be running in the next few days.

Pic taken before packing the module up-


[edited] for progress.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Dizzy has been tested for spark, the black box is in and programmed with my modded Pulsar dizzy's advance map.
I will bung the 43D dizzy in tomorrow and vroom vroom! I hope...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.