I've redone the map now, made the bottom end the same as the Pulsar.
No, it won't accept 0 rpm as a point, so I used 10 rpm and gave it 15deg.

I just took it around the block, yes it is going harder than it did with the Pulsar. But I'm not finished yet...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

One problem I have, it doesn't like the voltage drop across my ignition switch during cranking. It drops to ~8V.
It only fires up when I let the switch go. Time for a new switch... I probably buggered it up when running the Bosch starter solenoid direct through it.
Also, I found there is a stray 0.5V at the coil with ignition off, so that's probably why my battery goes flat in a few weeks. The damned ign switch, again.
[edit 2]
I went and bought a new ignition switch yesterday. Tested today before fitting with my DVM, it is faulty, when you turn it to start, it drops the ignition circuit. Gaaargh! Doesn't any parts maker use QC now. I am so over parts that arrive in plain white boxes with a part sticker added.

[edit]
I just pulled the dizzy cap off for a look at where it is sparking to on the plug lead lugs.
There is no sign of sparking inside the lug where you usually see it on a Lucas dizzy, the spark has been jumping to the leading side and corner of the lug.
This confirms my thoughts earlier that the rotor really should have a longer leading face like the 25D4 did. Or else the whole rotor could be made so it points ahead, by moving the inside lug position or modding the slot in the shaft.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Doc, I thought you had the dizzy set at zero on the blackbox for a base setting of 20 degrees static advance?

Turbo boys often need to solder a little tab of brass onto the tip of the rotor button to broaden the reach.
Solder is hard as rock at 80 degrees engine temp. Melts at 245, so no chance of it coming away.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Mick,
I was going to use 20, but felt 15 would do, it goes to 20deg at 1000 then 24 @ 1500 (idle speed is 1300+).

I could advance the dizzy 10deg like I said on the previous page, but so far it's working fine. I'd like to see how far the spark is arcing at 38 deg advance though (= 19 deg at rotor) but it works.

I had a look at a 25D rotor today, I like the design for this application but it's too small to fit.
I'll think about moving the rotor slot on the shaft forward a bit to advance the rotor. Or solder a rotor as you suggest. Easier...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If the dizzy trigger is set to zero, then the blackbox is used to advance the dizzy the full value of advance, then the spark will be ranged further along the rotor button.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

It cannot advance the dizzy, or the rotor, as it is now all mechanically fixed.
It advances the spark but that then happens 19deg before the rotor lines up. At 38 deg advance on crank.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yes, but you can separate the trigger point and the spark along the edge of the rotor by increasing the advance range. The trigger is no longer the spark point, the processor waits a period after the trigger to create the spark. If you create a greater advance gap from the trigger, then the spark will be further along from the leading edge of the rotor clockwise. Retard the static trigger to compensate.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

reading this thread...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ccoj5lhLmSQ

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

Sorry Mick, your description is calculus to me (and I don't understand either sort).
I understand the trigger is not the spark point, it's stuck at TDC. Fixed there...

[edit]
Further to my voltage problem, it's not the existing ignition switch.
I have 12.5V there until it cranks, it then drops to 10V on both the brown and white wires, and 9.0V at the coil + terminal.
Problem could be the battery isolator which is a bit puny, otherwise it's this bigass Bosch starter pulling the V down.
At least it does always start when I let the switch go...
[edit] I fixed it. The little green knob battery switch couldn't handle the load, so I binned it and fitted a Matson brass terminal lug.
Seems OK now.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

re the sparking ahead of the rotor due to the dizzy static timing being @ TDC...
I have measured the leading corner of the rotor to have about 10deg advance, in relation to the middle of the spark plug lug. To the corner of the lug would add another 6 or 7 deg, meaning that the spark is not arcing far at all at 19deg advance (dizzy degrees, = 38 at crank).
But I will look at extending the brass of the rotor 10deg by soldering another curved piece to it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

the distributor should be set at 0 degrees BTDC - meaning you should be able set the advance in the software to 0 degrees, connect a timing light and see the TDC mark on the flywheel when the engine is running

Once timed at 0 degrees, use the software to advance the timing. Never ever move the distributor again

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Yes Simon, that's how it is at the moment, I was concerned that the spark is arcing ahead of the rotor because the spark occurs (in my case) when the rotor is at up to 19 dizzy degrees before the plug wire lug.
It is arcing between the leading corner of the rotor and the trailing corner of lug. The 2 will never be in line, unless you program the spark at TDC.

It would be nice if Accuspark made a suitable 45D rotor shaped like a 25D one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Not that it would help you now doc but would using 25D dizzy have helped with your setup?

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
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1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Yes if doing it again I would perhaps use a 25D.
I'm using this 43D with `Vizard patent' roller bearing spindle, because I had it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Kev could the cam from a 25d be made to fit the 45d.

Also check out a rotor from a six cylinder british engine like a triumph.
I am sure they had slightly longer rotors. Its been a while since I have seen one but it may sort out your issue