I compared a 25D rotor yesterday, it is too short.
Next week I'll solder a bit of brass strip to the edge of my spare rotor, and dress it to the radius with my die grinder/toolpost grinder.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Search google for 22d6, they are quite a bit longer

Thanks, I wonder if Kc might have it...


Looks like it is a 25D6 rotor also.

[edit] I got one today, will trim the diameter to size next week.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm still having starting problems when cold.
Battery voltage whilst cranking is only 10.8V. No wonder I only have around 9V up front.
So I hotwired the coil from the battery with a 4mm2 wire, it still didn't fire.
Hooked up the USB cable, which powers the box with 12V from the PC, and Vroom!

Lion Battery 540CCA is near 3 years old, might be time for a new one. it shouldn't drop to 10.8V when cranking a Mini...?
It has been flattened once or twice...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Glad to help.

Battery could be your issue. Take it into an auto electrian who has an old fashioned carbon load tester. I recently took the battery to be tested on my wifes car which kept going flat. They said it was ok with a digital tester. I took to an old school workshop put the carbon load tester on and it showed up buggered straight away.

Also find out how many amps your starter is drawing? You may need to upgrade to a bigger battery now you have gone hi tech

You can retest the voltage droop across the solenoid, and compare the figures.

If the voltage droop is significantly less, check the quality and surface area of the spade connections from the solenoid to the fuse panel, and the same for the fuse as well. Voltage droop (when you are able top rule out the battery) is most always caused by poor connections, or too small a cross section conductor for the load passing through it.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Heh, heh. Quite descriptive

It is! That's the correct term actually, but I have used it more around power generation than anything else. AKA Voltage Sag.
The reaction of a power source to an increasing level of load.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Mick,
I've already cleaned the white wire contacts on the fuse holder, also both the brown and white wire terminals on the ign switch.

New 620CCA Century battery `Oz Made' 3 yr warranty is installed, it's on the trickle charger now. I'll crank it over in the morning.

[edit]
It STILL will not start when cold with the brand new bigger battery. Unless I plug the USB cable in.
I will refit the Lucas starter..... hope it will help.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Kev, Interested in those figures for the hi torque starter motor/solenoid compared to the Lucas- i was thinking about putting mine in the race car.....its battery weighs 1.2 kgs ..... 400 cca..., though the sound system in it draws hardly any amperage:) i just put the repco branded century in my road car , because of that 3 yr warranty... i am pretty sure century only offered two for the same battery?? might be wrong but happy in any case.... the century is not quite as heavy as optima but again better warranty on the ultra..century

Well this morning I cleaned up the connections at the solenoid with wet & dry paper, but it was still no go.
When cranking it now had 10.9V there, apparently that's not enough for the black box. I wonder how they get on in a UK winter...?

So, I replaced the Bosch starter with the Lucas, and it starts OK now.

The Bosch starter now has a Chinese solenoid after the OEM one got drowned. This solenoid drew so much juice when fitted that I had to use the Mini solenoid as a relay to pull it in. I hate replacement electrical parts that come in plain white boxes...

@FNQ-
No idea how much juice this Bosch starter draws, ask Tony (Convertible Mini). But a Falcodore only has about a 400CCA battery.

It spun the motor fine even with the old battery, it's just a pity the Accuspark black box can't handle any voltage drop.
IMO the thing should have been rated to work @10V, because that's all the average Mini has up front when cranking once the battery is a year or two old.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Try putting a diode in the postive feed. This may smooth out the supply voltage

Any of the In4000 series would work just check its ampage rating. 15amps is a good starting point.

USB is only 5v

theres something dodgy going on with your black box, sounds like the 5v regulator in it is cactus

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Working fine now.

The other day when I had the older battery (which is still OK I reckon), it wouldn't start even with the USB cable in.

With the Bosch starter, the black box only ever fired when you let go of the key.

I reckon it needs 11V to work.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Update:
Yesterday I thought I heard pinging @ 2000rpm, so I knocked 1 deg off both the 2000 and 2500 points. However, torque below 3000 immediately dropped off so, I've restored it to what it was.
It is just so easy to fiddle with the advance curve, and no NLA springs required!

Idling is near perfect, much smoother now than it was with the Pulsar dizzy.

I've not fitted my `curved' rotor to it yet, that's the next little project.
[edit] Which I machined today. Took little .002" cuts off it in the mighty Myford lathe.

45D4 rotor and machined down s/h 25D6 rotor- if it works OK I'll turn a new one.
[edit] More machining is required, to let the underside of the counterweight clear the Powerspark module.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.