Opinions on these high flow thermostats? I wouldn't say I have any type of cooling issues at all, but it does get pretty hot around these parts. I wouldn't say the car overheats, but when it's 35 degrees, 100% humidity and your stuck in slow moving traffic it can get warm.

Currently 1330, hi flow water pump, 3 core radiator, 6 blade fan, 13psi cap, non-recovery system.

Currently have a standard type thermostat fitted.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Its just a word. They don't even try to back it up.

Low fat, low sugar, low carbs, better choice etc etc.

Magic beans more like.

I think if there was a claim you could see it side by side. A bigger hole maybe, and that's it. What else could they do? Streamline it with fairings over the spring?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Yeah bigger hole.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Might work on a V8. The stock Mini thermostat is already the size of a 350 Chevy one.
Magic beanz, as Mick said.

When it comes to modern marketing, you need to tune your BS filter up these days.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

When I fitted my thermostat I just drilled a couple of holes in the base so it has a bit extra flow all the time. Maybe not ideal for the southerners but for a car in a warmer climate I think it's alright.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Having an even larger opening, do you think it would be a bad thing to allow coolant to flow even quicker and not give time to allow for the coolant to remove the heat?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

You get into systems engineering now. Everything has an effect, and engineers in the 60s new all about cooling requirements don't worry. The SR71 caught up with the setting sun in 1962....

All this is the context of a non-race mini by the way. I don't care about 130hp fire breathing one off specials in this case, but someone always does....

The thermostat was designed to be generic for a large range of cars, and cool large volume V8s as well as our (down to) 850cc engines. If I was to be pedantic, I would wonder if the "Large Volume" would allow too much cool water in and increase the temperature variance around th rated thermostat value as the thermostat opens and closes. But I won't because its anal retentive. It might just work fine, but in 50 years the standard thermostat has not been proven fallible, and it works just fine. The very clever engineers of the time settled on a throat size for a reason. This is lost in time, but looking at the thermostat it isn't necessarily for cost. They can make it easily 10 or 15mm larger, but they haven't, and the reason for this is back in system design.

The high rated one might work fine too. I just wouldn't personally pay an extra ten dollars for it for an unproven and untested claim against the need for my engines for an issue which hasn't arisen on the road. Minis overheating will always be attributed to a specific problem, be it radiator damage, block corrosion, pump degredation, coolant volume or quality.

Cairns differs greatest in humidity, whereas temperatures in ACT, NSW, SA, WA and VIC will often exceed 40 degrees for weeks through summer. But still, the standard cooling systems when clean and maintained with good coolant and parts shrug it off. The 34 degrees (and 95% humidity) days of up there will challenge it in much the same way as down here in summer. Your parts will degrade much faster however given the amount of time they operate up there in the environment. Rubber especially.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Hanra...Are you thinking about taking the mini out of its bubble?
Bit risky don't you think?
I'm thinking you might need another cool project.

Thanks for your insight Mick.



Mate its been out of the bubble since October last year!!!! In the shed being tinkered on when I can be bothered!!! I think Ive had 3 rego stickers arrive and end up in the bin as there has been no need to fit them to the car! It hasnt been driven for a while.... So Im making an effort to go over everything to get it driveable again, so that it can sit in the bubble for another few years!!!! hahahahahahaha

Yes, I need another project!!!!!!!

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I'd either 1) not worry until you have a problem, 2) install a thermo fan of some sort if you are worried or 3) buy another project car!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I like the thermo fan idea, I just dont like there are not many options for temp sense.... Ive got a mechanical temp sender in the head... where else is there to take temp sense from for a thermo fan. I hate those probes that go in the upper hose..... I dont really like the idea of a manual switch on/off.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Its a pretty simple deal for a radiator shop to solder a temp sensor thread onto the bottom of the radiator to sense the water temp after cooling, and before it goes back into the engine. Very simple and cheap if you present them with the radiator yourself.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Sounds like the ideal solution. Is there any way to mount a suck through thermo fan on the wheel arch side of the radiator? That would be ideal "hidden" way to do it? Just thinking off the cuff cause I don't have any overheating problems, in fact she runs a bit too cold...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Wasn't there someone selling a suck through solution? I thought someone here bought one a little while back?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Back in the days when Cooper S suffered pinging and overheating. The BMC fix was to remove the head and do a bit of grinding off hotspots in the combustion chambers and drill out the bypass hole in the thermostat.
It worked sometimes.