They had hydro pumps fitted in the back. From the looks of how they were set up it was probably more for running repairs rather than height changes.
They were not plumbed in like most sources claim, it was just a more efficient use of space to mount them into the car.

Thanks for the replies.

There seems to be air bags availible in near enough to the correct size, however as pointed out in this thread the issue is the way in which the arms 'lever' on the bags. .

I think I will just end up going coils, as seeing as my bags have sat empty and unsealed for likely the better part of 5 years I don't think there will be much hope in saving them is the thread linked early is any indication of what to expect.

Airbags was meant to be a cheap way to overhaul the suspension. i.e. $350 for the bags, already have a compressor suitable, a few valves and lines and a tank(also have) would have been about $5-600 for to do. . .

Leroy.

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1967 Mini Deluxe bucket of rust and mismatched parts powered by a 1360cc and a destroyed gearbox missing second gear

I would keep the hydro bags, re-hose them if needed.
Mine are 44 years old and still going strong (touches wood)
It spent 8 years sitting nearly deflated in a garden. That was 20 years ago. So don't be afraid to pump it backup.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

We're the bags empty though? From what I have read the bags are likely rusted out inside on the piston ans whatnot?

Leroy.

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1967 Mini Deluxe bucket of rust and mismatched parts powered by a 1360cc and a destroyed gearbox missing second gear

Don't use them, stick them in a box and post them to me and I will dispose of them in the correct manner.

Motion ratio (lever) is what you need to keep in mind. The hydrolastic rubber spring within the bags themselves have a spring rate in excess of 5000lb/inch. No conventional shock absorber can keep up with that motion ratio, which is why on the dry suspension the shock absorbers are mounted closer to the wheels (reducing the motion ration). If your referring to air-assist air bags such as PolyAir Springs (Goodyear Mgf) or AirbagMan (Firestone Mfg), which are an assistance airbag that "helps" a coil or leaf spring with shock absorber, you need to do more homework. These are not designed to be used in place of anything. Most of these systems work at 150psi max, and still would need a spring and shock absorber for ride quality... in which case just go dry and sell your bags to fund the changeover.

Cheers, Don

hi Don,
I am not referring to helper airbags, i understand their intended use and am aware they are not suitable int his instance.

My plan was to add shock's in the same place as would be on a dry setup mini in addition to the airbags.
I have been given the information required which lets me know airbags are not suitable for the application in mind unless I was to place them where the shocks would go (such as this kit:http://airride.co.uk/2012/08/classic-mini/)
which would not be viable for me as I was going to attempt to keep price down due to the access to cost price airbags and already having half the required parts if I was replace the hydro bags with air bags.

I am happy to go with the wet setup and had planned to do so until reading that chances of there failure after sitting empty and dry for so long is so high and at a replacement cost of roughly $160 a bag im told was investigating other options.

I already have a set of dry sub frames in my other mini which I might steal for this project and convert over then look towards fitting coils in the wet sub frames and putting these into the other mini when it comes time for its rebuild. . i have a few options and was only after the specs to see if the idea in my head was possible of which I am now sure is not due to the exact issue you have mention.

I'll repeat though I was NOT intending on using helper/assist bags/

Leroy.

edit: link added

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1967 Mini Deluxe bucket of rust and mismatched parts powered by a 1360cc and a destroyed gearbox missing second gear

Just because they are `dry' does not guarantee they are no good inside.
It's worth testing them for leaks @ 300psi (restrained in a subframe or something), and re-hose them if needed.
The internal damping valves may be shot from old age, many folks these days add a set of stock Mini shocks on the front to compensate.
My car handles great, it just has Pedders front shocks, and comp hydro bumpstops on the rear.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Leroy,

The doc is right, test them or have them tested, you'd be surprised how well they still work. All of my bags, 30years sitting, deflated, nasty rusty gunk inside, one of my hard lines was rusted through as well, and they were all still usable. I was given a false alarm on one of my bags due to external rust around the bladder, so I cut it open to learn more about them, and the inside was fine. The external rust could have been dealt with easily as I have mentioned in the Hydrolastosity post. Throw in the towel when they burst through the rubber spring or bladder.

As per air shocks, no need to repeat yourself, just wanted to be clear. Those air shocks in your link only work in the shock absorber mounting location. I misread the post as if you wanted to put an air shock in the location of the hydrobag.

Cheers, Don

How do you test them - I have spare wet subframes but as it's out of the car I have no way of applying pressure to it. Is it OK to pump it up without pressure/resistance?

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Justin

They really need resistance.

I thought so....thanks.

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Justin

IMO you will blow them up if over-extended.
I cut the corner out of a v rusty Cooper S subframe, here's a pic-

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cowan's clubman in the 70's certainly had such a rig bolted to the rear seat back...

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"Show me the Mini!"

Thanks for all the help and info guys, feel a bit more confident in putting the hydro back under the car, My uncle says he has a vacuum and pump that he used on a mates hydro mini back in the 70's and he will help me pump them back up.

asuming its a good idea to pull the bags from the subframes and put them in a jig and pressure test before bolting the sub frames under the car and filling?

Ill ask my next questions here, let me know if I am better off adding a new thread for it though.

so now with the new found 'confidence' in the bags i have, I guess I am pretty damn close to beginning assembly on the car. the car is still in primer and the previous owner had painted the engine bay in that god awfull thick rubber body deadened which I plan to strip off and the re paint the engine bay. .

should I have the body painted (by the spray painter) before I fit the subframes? or should I assemble the frames and attach to the car and bolt my engine in before sending it of for paint?
I guess the reason i ask is I cannot afford the apint job right now but want to get to work on the car, but if it is better to have it painted first I can always bolt the engine into the front frame and all and find a few other things to do before i can afford the paintwork.

only going for a cheap paint job, have agreed with a painter that if I do all the prep and mask work he will shoot it in my choice for colour for a nice cheap price, and as inside the boot and engine bay will be black no reason why i couldn't fit the engine and frames right?

Leroy.

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1967 Mini Deluxe bucket of rust and mismatched parts powered by a 1360cc and a destroyed gearbox missing second gear