I have machined the s/h 25D6 rotor's counterweight to clear the module, however it is now a loose fit on the shaft from the interrupted cutting, so is nfg.

I will go back to plan A, and solder a little bit of brass to the side of a stock 45D rotor.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I've just gotten home after 3 weeks away last night, so I've just pulled the 29d rotor button out to have a look.

As I thought it might, the spark pattern is more reasonable as the advance used in my timing map is more like a standard timing pattern for this dizzy. Now with added reliability and flexibility...

And I bought myself a present while I was away. A second stealth unit for the 62 Cooper Seems they now give you a USB instead of the CD. I'll see if I can work out if the software version is the same or not.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Yeah, mine came on USB, software seems the same but I can't get `real time' to work...

I wish they came with a Molex plug on the back to make it easy to remove if needed.
I extended the wires on mine using 7 core trailer wire, I soldered them and used heatshrink. 4 of the colours matched.

After more fiddling today, here is my latest map-



It's hauling ass.

[edit] DO NOT BE TEMPTED TO RUN THIS MUCH ADVANCE WITH NORMAL SHAPED COMBUSTION CHAMBERS.
As I said previously, the head on this car is bathtubbed, has no beak shape and hardly any squish. So it needs much more advance to work.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

This might be a bit late now but....

I finally got up to the top shelf in the shed yesterday and located my dizzy with the extended rotor button I used with and electronic ignition module from Jaycar 18 years ago.
As you can see from the photos, I removed the brass section from the rotor and made my own up from some brass sheet I had with the extended trailing arm. Then carefully drilled and anchored with a 4/40 bolt and nut I think, with some high temp red silastic to prevent ant tracking / arcing down below to points at the time. Worked a treat!
I removed the fly weights from down below and advanced the spindle and then locked it off in the fully mechanical advanced position. Similar to what everyone is doing with Accuspark.

Cheers Shane

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If it's not a Cooper S, the mini was designed to be modified!

OK today I checked max advance timing @ 4000rpm with the dialback light (39deg) then took 10 deg off all 7 map points, and turned the dizzy clockwise 10deg so I had 39deg max advance again.

It starts and runs the same (hauls ass) as it did yesterday. I'll pull the rotor out in a week and check if it's sparking right across the face now. If so I'll leave the rotor stock.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OK it's now been a week since I physically advanced the dizzy to 10deg static, so I pulled the dizzy cap off for a look.
It is now sparking on 3/4 of the rotor's brass strip, instead of just the leading corner, like it was when set for TDC datum.

So, I'll leave it set this way, running the std 43/45D rotor. It is now going like sh!te off a shovel..

Here's the latest map, actual advance is +10deg on figures shown.
This has also allowed me to increase high rpm dwell a bit.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Where have you guys bought your black boxes from and how much?

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http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stealth-Blac ... 1286055616
This is Rob Roy. Cheaper here than from accuspark in UK.

Also watch the short vids on the accuspark site, they are informative.
http://accuspark.co.uk/Blackbox.htm

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Rob Roy Historic Garage in Vic sell them for about 200 from Victoria. They're also on eBay from the same seller.
I've bought both of mine from there so far.

Convertible Mini (Tony) tells me he will be getting another version in for about the same money sometime soon.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I took the Mini for a good 3hr run with the Sprite CC today, down to Narellan via northern rd, then to the pie shop at Bargo.
[edit] Good pies there!
Came back up the Hume hwy.
With the Accuspark on it now idles better, is smoother all the way to 7500 redline, has more torque and top end power. It also seems to be using less fuel, not that I measured this.

Only problem I encountered was the dreaded carb icing after cruising @ 4700rpm (110KMH) for a while on the highway. It makes the throttle butterflies stick at idle.
This Redline Weber manifold is getting water heating added, the next time it's off.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

How will you do that doc? Just weld a tube on the manifold?

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Good idea, stick the heater after the frozen bit.
Probably need warmer dry air instead of cold damp air.

Yes, I will MIG weld a bit of alloy tube, 1/2" OD x 5/16" ID across the back of the manifold's carb flanges. I can't TIG it as my TIG welder is DC only.
I will run the fresh air heater's exit hose through it to the bottom rad hose (this circuit runs all the time, these heaters use `air mixing' and have no tap).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What are thoughts on this being used on a forced inducted engine?

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

mattsmadmini, I'm assuming your asking about using Accuspark Stealth Blackbox here and not to Doc's water heated manifold mod?

I'm thinking of using the Accuspark Blackbox myself for a normally aspirated setup, and for a forced induction motor it would also be ideal. Once the system is installed and basically tuned, the simplistic plug in the laptop to modify your advance curve far outweighs pulling out the dizzy to be recurved every time to want to make a change, is in my books the way to go.

With forced induction, as you are most likely well aware, you need to start taking away or retarding ignition advance once you put boost into the engine. Accuspark would be very easy to do this with, especially with supercharging as you almost have a known boost at a given RPM!

Cheers Shane

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If it's not a Cooper S, the mini was designed to be modified!