Was installing smiths rev gauge in my leyland 78 and the car was cutting out. Eventually didn't start . Finally worked out the module in dizzy had crap itself . Why???? Your help is much appreciated

Was it the inductive loop type? Was there any connections in the circuit to the rev counter?

I have been running an A Smiths RVI revcounter for five years on the one module, and they don't consume any significant power in doing so. They technically should be fine.

Did you remove the tacho from the circuit, and rewire the tacho directly back to the coil with a different short wire?

As a rule of thumb, heat kills the modules (>180 degrees at the module itself), also reverse polarity, and over voltage.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

had different wire to coil running through firewall when I tested the power to the fuse box it was trying to cut out car

Ok, so its not inductive.

That black wire under the 4&6 Cyl termination, what is that about, and where is the 8 cyl termination going to?

Do I assume the blue comes from the coil?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Disconnected the brown .black I assumed was earth ,only black / red white / green/ red was coming out of bottom. I will open gauge and let u know. Thx Mick

So the module works fine, until you try to connect the tacho to +ve 12 volts. Then you can't really blame the module.

I'm trying to find an image of the wiring for one of these tachs, but am not having any luck. They're the plastic pod tachos aren't they? I don't think that's a very correct setup.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Some of these aftermarket electronic modules can die from heat if you leave the ignition on for a few minutes with the engine stopped.
Pertronix 1 was known for this problem, and I blew a blue UK one once the same way.

ps. If anybody runs one of these modules on a roundnose Mini I would not wire the radio thru the ignition switch, unless it has an accessory position.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yea it is the plastic pod ones.& I did leave ignition on for a bit!

Is it wise to join the wire from coil with a switch for a kill switch?

It doesn't hurt. And it's a simple theft deterrent.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have Mini Ignition switches with an accessory position which will prevent these problems. They look the same as the original. They have accessory/Off/Ignition/Start. PM me if any one wants one. They are quite inexpensive and worth fitting.
Sometimes I read about problems have with their Mini related to Ignition circuit. Most times it is an overloaded Ignition switch. Remember the contacts in a 50 year old switch will not be what they should be after having been turned on and off carrying God knows what current for so many years.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

My rev gauge says RVI , will the problem be solved if buy a RVC gauge or can the one I have be converted to work with a elec dizzy? Got kill switch to work but tacho still problem.