Can anyone advise the P/N or supplier or a link for an overhaul kit to suit PBR/Lockheed plastic resovoir Master Cylinders.

Also I saw these new resovoirs on eBay? Any good??

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280867582451

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

They look the same as the resovoirs that Matt Read had repro-ed some years ago , i have 2 of them here ,
haven't had to use them yet .

As far as the cyl kit goes , any mini place should be able to supply them .

I notice Minisport sell the same ones also?

http://minisport.com.au/mini-brake-or-c ... -large-cap

Not as white as those other ones, these are more like the original colour.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Found 2 part numbers for different bore size M/C's.

K7572X for 19.05mm bore

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400557300518 ... 1423.l2649

K7420X for 17.85mm bore

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271262433177 ... 1423.l2649


Protex brand is a common place brand name? Or just a cheapy? Minisport have the same kits for $39 or something.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Checked mine out and they are the 17.85mm bore. Think they were out of a 74 Clubman.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Echo echo echo echo

Is the brake and clutch bores different sizes?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I think you can worry over the brand of brake rubbers, but I don't think you will find much difference if any. They will last for years in your use. I've bought them from wherever I'm getting my parts from and not had any give me any trouble, brake rubbers have been made for a long time. You can also save on post and get the individual parts from a good brake specialist like ABS off the shelf, they're generic parts.

That size you mentioned is 0.70 bore. They can be different sizes, and there's no guarantee you don't have a 0.75" for the other. I would suggest taking them apart, putting the rubbers into a small ziplock bags (without mixing them in case you want to get them locally), and measure each bore.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I'm doing the same job at the moment Hanra , i have both M / Cyl's out at the moment , my cyl's are lockheed brand and have .7" cast into the side of them .

I have had another .7" cyl stainless steel sleeved to .75" ( 3/4" ) to replace the .7" i had for my clutch ,
That clutch cyl had already been S/S before , so i have cleaned & re-kitted it to suit the brake system , so now my clutch & brake system is now all S/S sleeved .

I just checked my spare master cyl's and the few PBR type i have ,don't have the size cast into them .
You may have to measure yours to make sure of the size , but you should be able to get kits from any of the Mini Suppliers .

Stock bore for single line brake MCs (except 998 Cooper's 0.625" & 850's 0.75") is 0.70".

Most clutch MCs are 0.75".
Some 0.7" Lockheed/PBR ones were fitted, but these really don't move enough fluid for reliable clutch operation (once you add some linkage wear here and there).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hmmmm both my brake and clutch M/C's are .700in bore...... I guess I need to track down a .750in bore M/C? Or can this one be opened up and sleaved?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Both of those options will work.

However, if it worked fine before you took it apart, then it will work fine again.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I just had a memory from about 1997, I remember the local mechanic heating up and slightly bending my clutch arm around the fulcrum area to get a bit more throw. This may have been needed as I only had a .700in bore clutch M/C.....

If I fit a .750in clutch M/C as the doc suggested I may run into issues with my slightly bent clutch arm???

It worked before I guess it will keep working with a .700 M/C.

What would the symptons be of a .700in clutch M/C without a bent lever arm????

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Clutch arm has been bent to make up for linkage wear and stop the slave piston running out of travel when it hits the circlip.
A 0.75 bore MC will fit straight on, no changes needed.
However I would look at the ball on the arm, wear in the bearing plunger and wear on the clevis pins. Fix what you find worn.

Do NOT buy the real cheap (~$20) bearing plungers, as they are soft free machining steel, unhardened and will wear out very quickly.
No they can't be hardened, as the steel is rubbish and has lead in it.
They can be drilled out and a hardened steel bush fitted, I have done a few.

The Minispares uprated (ie so called original spec) EN24 material one is a bit harder, but not near as hard as originals were.
I have Rockwell hardness tested all 3.
http://minispares.com/product/classic/22A180.aspx

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Got some Repro M/C reservoirs today off of Matt Reed.

Cheeky bugger put his name on them!!!!!! Hahahahahahahahah Nice work.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Ha!

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.