Has anyone done a conversion to disks this way yet? how did it go? Much work?

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Nick

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86675

I bought one of the unassembled kits. If you look at the how-to (here)[http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=77858] you can see how much work is required.

If it's already assembled, you will need a ball joint splitter (or two big hammers can work I hear), a big hammer to remove the old joints from the shaft, torque wrench, and a few spanners and sockets to put in the new pads, change the brake lines and bleed the brakes. Don't forget if you're going from drums to disks you will need to change you rear brake cylinders as well.

So quick directions to give you an idea:
- Jack up the front, take off the wheel.
- Disconnect and plug the old brake line.
- Crack the ball joints and tie rod end.
- Remove wheel assembly with drive shaft. You may need to unbolt from the gearbox depending on your inner joints. If they're pot joints, remove the boot and the will just slide out.
- Remove the drive shaft from the old CV joint, and attach to new CV joint in your new disc brake assembly
- Put the new assembly in place and attach the inner drive shaft joint again (with pot joints, just re-grease, and attach the boot with new boot clips)
- Put the new pads and caliper on and bolt it up
- Attach the new brake line (both ends) and give it a quick bleed. If you wait until both new discs are in place, there will be a lot of air in the lines and it will make bleeding harder.
- Tighten up tie-rod end and ball joint nuts.
- Put wheel back on, and repeat for the other side.

You will most likely need a wheel alignment afterwards (I had maybe 20mm of toe-out after changing mine!). The hardest bit is probably changing the brake lines - they've often been there for a long, long time and they can be a pain to get to.

Thanks for the info Irish, I have been reading though that.

I have picked at DrMini's brain over a few messages trying to work out all the info before I go for a swim.

Most of the information I find leads to the disk assembly being wider than the drum assembly that's fine, I'll get proper spaced drums for the rear and flares if need be to suit the new tracks.

Is it possible that I would need to "upgrade" the drive shafts as well or are the stock mini ones (1978 clubman) fairly "indestructible"

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Nick

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86675

Your shafts will come right over without an issue.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I'd watch how well assembled these assembled kits are.
Particularly the balljoints. I'd undo them, re-shim them if wrong, and torque them back up.
The cap nut should be torqued to 72ft/lb approx, it is bloody dangerous to leave them finger tight and then just rely on the `lock washer' as some Mini drivers seem to do. That's an accident waiting to happen.

I am not suggesting that suppliers ship new products in this condition, but it's better to be safe than sorry (and maybe dead) with balljoints. I was in a M1100 once when a balljoint came off at speed, and it was not a funny experience.
I know... I'm being paranoid.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah, I'd been driving mine for a couple years, and when I went to crack the ball joints I found the mechanic had done this. What an idiot.

I already had spacered drums and flares on mine, so the disks were just a straight replacement, the width was the same.

My mate bought a Clubby van in Qld with 1275LS mechanicals and we drove it home to Sydney, sitting on the speed limit.
When we stripped the balljoints, one bottom one was assembled like this..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I can also recommend checking ball joints, when my partial assembled front hubs were fitted the upper left ball joint would not swivel.
had to put one shim in it.

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It's easy once you know how.

Ball joints, Noted, thanks guys. What set did you get Diesel?

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Nick

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86675

If your not confident in building up a set of disc brakes and fitting them yourself, I can put you in touch with the best person to do the job for you.

Doogie

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I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

7.5 inch from mini sports SA, all was good but the one tight ball joint.
I had the bearings and ball joints pre assembled.

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It's easy once you know how.

Hey all - I also recently had a set of these KAD brakes delivered (pre-assembled). The ball joints are super stiff.

Should they be this way? or should I be doing something to free them up before I install them? (ie shim and re-assemble)

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

They certainly won't be loose, but will be able to be manipulated by tapping carefully with a soft hammer for example (don't damage the thread!).

If they were loose enough to move easily by hand, then that would be a big concern.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Ah okay this is the sort of guidance I was after thanks. One is able to be moved with a small-medium amount of force by hand. One is very stiff and seems almost unmovable by hand. But a hammer tap can move it.

I expected them to be smoother moving. Especially when I compare to the ball joints from the old drum assembly. These old ones are able to move/flop about with gravity but don't seem to have any play so they seemed to me to be pretty good. But obviously they are bedded in / too loose by now.

Cheers.

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

They will wear in as they are used.

Make sure they are greased as well. A squirt of molybdenum disulphide grease through the grease nipple will do the job.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.