Hi All,

I got an 1100 engine/gearbox with my new Moke Project.
It is missing the carby and the distrubtor cap/leads but otherwise looks to be in order.

What can I do, without taking it apart, so see if its in a usable condition (assume i have no idea)
Atm I'll i really know is that it has plenty of oil on the dip stick, and the rockers look nice and oily when i look through the filler cap

Ideally, Id like to confirm its useable, and If so, get the parts I need to fire it up.

Following on from that, if it is in a useable condition, and I get a carby, coil, dizzy cap, which is the bare minium needed to run it on the floor?
Can I just use a hose and tap water in place of a radiator? or is that a terrible idea?

When I got my mini on the road, alot of this sort of stuff was done for me by others because i needed it done for me to drive to work, this time around I want to try to do as much as I can myself as a learning experience.

Thanks!

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1975 Hairy Lime/White Clubby
Build Thread: http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=80657

First up I would give it a compression test.
As for running it on the floor, 5 mins max without a radiator or anything else to cool won't hurt it, except the water pump seal. If you do this, take the fan belt off first.
Don't rev it much or it might walk up the driveway.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cheers,

I assume if I put 12 volts to the starter motor, it will try to turn the engine over....

but is there a way / what is the best way to turn it over by hand, before i did that?

can I do a compression test just be turning it over by hand?

Its out of the car at the moment (still on the subframe) but i'll take it off the subframe and probably tie it down onto a pallet before I do any work on it.

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1975 Hairy Lime/White Clubby
Build Thread: http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=80657

Yes compression tests can be done by hand by putting a socket onto the harmonic balancer and turning it over.

Its hard to detect main and big end bearing wear, and also hard to spot other things like excessive oil consumption without putting the engine under load on the road. I would take oil leaks as a given, and be prepared to deal with a crummy head or normal gasket or two after putting it back in. There is every chance the gearbox will give you grief, but again you will only spot that on the road.

Mind you, after a test run on the ground, its just 1.5 hours (working time, not including tea breaks) to put it in and prove the engine, and 1.5 hours to pull it back out. As opposed to 12 hours to pull it down and inspect everything by hand...

I would like to tear it down, but that's just me. I hate unknowns. There is ALWAYS a reason an engine has been taken out and put aside.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Without running the engine or pulling it apart all you can really check is if the engine still rotates with a spanner or ratchet.
IMO to floor start/run the engine I'd try to use parts you know work. A carby that's been tuned and working on a similar engine would be ideal, an electric fuel pump, a starter, solenoid, coil and dizzy also from a running engine if you can. It's just an easy way to eliminate most of the unknow things that could prevent a new/unknow engine from starting and running easily.
If you can set the engine up with an oil pressure and water temp gauges it's safer knowing what the engine is actually doing.
Also to start with, crank the engine over without the plugs in it so it can circulate some oil. If you're really keen on not damaging the engine change the oil and filter before you even crank the engine. A good useable engine that's sat for years can easily be damaged or wrecked if it's just started straight up and revved up.
Take it slowly, do what you can to protect the engine and let it warm up properly, but be ready to shut it off quickly and keep a fire extinguisher handy.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Never done that before so learnt something new. Is it best to have all the plugs out to do this?

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Thanks all.
Like I said. Im new to alot of this more in depth stuff. So thanks for the help

Its got a mechanic fuel oump in it at the moment, is that ok to use? Or am I better off chaning for a electric one?
What needs to be done to remove the mechanic pump?

Also... is the harmonic balancer the big pully under the water pump?

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1975 Hairy Lime/White Clubby
Build Thread: http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=80657

I ran my Cooper S motor on a workbench with a bottle of petrol (about 100ml) hanging from the roof and no fuel pump.

On a related note...

Since I have no carby, should I get a HS4 and a new manifold... or just a HS2 to go on the manifold I have?

Would a hs4 make any noticeable difference on a 1098 overa hs2?

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1975 Hairy Lime/White Clubby
Build Thread: http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=80657

Helps, as you're not fighting compression on the other three.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

The hs4 would be better overall, the hs2 will run fine on a std engine but the bigger one will still be suitable if you mod the engine in the future.

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

make sure you squirt a bit of oil down the spark plug holes before you start mucking around with it - give the bores & rings a bit of lubrication... otherwise they're running dry

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

This can mask if you have dodgy rings when doing your compression test. But it will keep the bores in good nick

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If it's been sitting full of old oil for many years I would undo the oil pipe to filter, prime the oil pump through the banjo bolt hole, turn the motor backwards 2 turns, then check the pump picks up oil when cranked, before refitting the pipe.
I had a 998 Moke motor like this, I had changed the oil and filter but no way would the pump pick up oil. The oil pipe's pickup screen must have been clogged with sludge. So I sold it with the Moke and warned the owner it needed rebuild.
Hey Ian has it happened yet???

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The matters under active consideration (engine's still under the bench). Maybe the S should be revived first??

Cheers, Ian