I recently installed new rotors and pads up front on my Rover, and it was pretty sweet for about 20km. Now the passenger side is making a noise similar to a warped rotor (scrape, scrape, scrape scrape...) I had the brand new rotors machined before installing them.

What's really strange, is that the noise almost entirely disappears when I am turning right, and gets very loud when I am turning left. Of course I'm going to jump in and investigate (tomorrow), but anyone have an idea what could cause this asymmetric noise making?

-Brian

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)

Have you got the stone shields installed?

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To have it disappear around a corner means that the disc is moving in relation to the hub. It shouldn't really be making that noise at all if the discs have been machined back to true.

You need to check your CV nut tension. If the nut is up to tension, it could be play in the wheel bearings that is causing the disc to move in relation to the hub under load.

Your CV could be worn, as could your drive flange. A loose nut creates this wear, and thereafter no amount of tightening will repair it.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Hi Brian, just wondering why you had brand new rotors machined ??

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

Some people disagree, but I always have new rotors machined. Firstly it ensures they run true, and the scrape, scrape, scrape is something that drives me nuts so I avoid it at all costs. (Unfortunately it didn't work out for me this time.) Secondly, I believe it helps the pads bed in a bit quicker, without having to run them up to super temperatures. (EBC even recommends it).

I do however think I've solved the problems, thanks to my personal help line (AusMini).


How tight is too tight for this CV nut? Or is that impossible?

Because of the strife I went through removingthe thing, I probably didn't tighten it quite as much as I should have. Also, since I am using a meter long bar, i didn't want to lean on it too hard. So I am genuine about the question - How tight is too tight for that CV nut?

I took it all apart, re-tightend the ba-jeezus out of the CV nut, and then uniformly toqued the drive flange onto the disc. This solved the problem of noisy turning. Thanks Mick! Unfortunately, now it was simply making noise all the time. I went back through it and discovered that the new pins and clips I ordered were the culprit. I took a dremel to the inside edge of the clip, which had been rubbing against the rotor and whoila, happy days are here again.

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)

The torque settings are really important. The CV nut settings are 150 lb/ft for the Disc Brake CV nut.

Without a torque wrench, then as tight as you can with a meter long bar will come somewhere close to it.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I disagree.

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)

Probably Mike, because you are disagreeable

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"Show me the Mini!"