Over the years with both the old Low Volume Import Scheme and now with the current Specialist and Enthusiast Vehicle Scheme we have complied in excess of 150 Mini’s so we have seen a few. Add to that the many we see for servicing and those who simply call or e-mail us asking for advice and it’s safe to say we have seen most things.
What I can easily say is the number one thing to do before buying is do your homework. The vast majority of EFI Mini’s we see that could be deemed as “bad cars” are generally those built from a number of different ones. At the end of the LVCS basically all the Mini importers did not continue with the new RAWS scheme which allows for the importing of SEVS eligible vehicles. This meant many bought in half cuts and the like and built up EFI running gear that was then fitted in pre 89 cars that could still be imported and were relatively easy to get on the road. Many of these were done very well however, many others were simply terrible jobs and left owners having constant issues. Others were auto transmission cars that were poorly swapped to manual, or early A series 1275 engines fitted with patched together EFI systems. Finally some simply swapped the plates from early Australian built cars onto late model Mini’s and registered them that way.
Buying any used car obviously has risks associated with it however, if you deal with longstanding vehicle sourcing companies, you should avoid any pitfalls.
We work with most of the bigger importers in Australia including J-Spec and Iron Chef Imports and have complied cars (not just Mini's) for them. We also have our own trusted supplier who has dealt with Mini’s for many years and knows the things to be careful of.
Overall I would say the EFI Rover Mini is a great car to have. Over the years I have owned numerous cars and driven them all over this great land. We’ve been as far south as Tassie and as far north as Mackay in them and had a ball. The only time we had an issue was with an extra sensitive inertia relay which kept killing the fuel pump power when we hit a decent bump!!
The buyers’ checklist I would suggest includes –
Vacuum hose leaks – easily the most common issue. The MAP sensor tubing and unions usually leak causing the car to run rich. These are usually very easy to rectify.
Electrical modifications - easily the area that can cause many problems. Like most Rover’s, the Mini’s elec system is not renowned for being the best set up, nor sensibly routed. This can leave the wires stretched and loose connections causing open circuits. Keep an eye on your harness and ensure the supporting clips that hold it in place are not causing undue stress or stretching.
Rust - overall the Mini’s from Japan are usually pretty good. However, the UK sourced ones can rust out in very little time and the replacing of guards, sills and floors is an accepted “maintenance” item. Although these repairs can be done as per the manufacturer guidelines, under the RAWS regulations such repairs fall within the structural repair category and are therefore not allowed. The other main area we see corrosion is in the bottom of the doors. As the outer skin is fitted over the door frame this section remains unpainted. It is sealed with a wax type sealant however, over time this breaks up and allows water to sit on the bare metal in the base of the door. The resultant rust is messy and can be difficult to remove completely. Replacement of the doors is allowed under RAWS and this is what is done in severe cases.
Additionally we see a few issues with the SRS clockspring (located at the base of the steering wheel). The ribbon that forms the clockspring is prone to the wiring getting damaged causing SRS light illumination and sometimes the horn does not work. Again this is an easy fix with a replacement clock spring pretty cheap.
As the cars get older we are seeing a few trim items starting to suffer. The steering wheels and gearknobs in particular especially as the Japanese tend to wear a lot of hand jewellery, which damages the soft leather. We are seeing wear in the RH seat squabs, and cracks in the wooden dashes.
Other items include oil leaks (usually the selector shaft seal), noisy water pumps, ball joints that need greasing and/or adjusting and perished steering rack boots. All of these items I would deem as general maintenance items which when completed, should last for many more years.
I’m sure others will add to this list of things to be careful of and others may speak of their own horror stories. As with all these things get the full story about the history of the car, whether it has had any changes over the years, and decide for yourself. I know of one case where the owner came unstuck chasing parts for a car that started life as a pre MY97 model auto, got fitted with a partial MY97 onwards harness adapted to suit a manual transmission. This was then fitted to an unknown origin engine and was all trying to run through an ECU that has no markings. When something goes wrong it seems a tad unfair to blame the car.
Despite claims, all the parts are fairly easy to obtain with most of the fast moving mechanical items identical to the late model Leyland Mini’s and Mokes. Although less common, like many other bits for the classic Mini, the electrical items are generally available ex Japan or the UK.
At this point we are the only RAW in Australia who can comply the Rover Mini. Our compliance is limited to the MY97 onwards (SRS equipped) Rover Mini and includes the SPI, MPI, auto and manual transmission. Finally we have on record the build dates for all Rover Mini’s built from 1996 onwards so can date your car accurately. We also have on record all the information on every Mini we have complied under RAWS so we can assist with any queries you might have on them or any other Mini. Please feel free to contact us at
[email protected]Regards,
Chris Gough.
Australian Mini Cooper.
