hey guys
looking at doing some work to my gearbox next year on my 76 Leyland.
I like to drive the car hard but don't think ill be doing any track days what is the better way to go.
no one can give me a straight answer.

any help you be great.

A Straight Cut will yield a couple of horsepower on a dyno so if you REALLY need those two ponies ALL the time a straight cut is for you.
On the other hand you can hear a straight cut from two suburbs away.
I'd go helical.
One guy on the Ryalstone decided to get rid of his Weber because of the constant noise on a trip.
Silence is golden !

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

don't get straight cut gears - much less money can be spent in much better ways

**coming from 30,000km from a properly built standard gearbox doing track days, motorkhanas, daily driving, you name it under a supercharged 1330 - after the motor wore out I pulled the box apart and just put it back together with only basic consumables replaced

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

the real (original) reason for having SC gear was to give you the ratios to suit your race engine`s power spread
& to help sort the ratios to suit the race track you`re racing on
a gear for every occasion, so to speak

however, if you don`t actually have a high reving, peaky, short spread race engine,,, then you really don`t need Close Ratios do you???

if that`s not the straight cut answer you`re looking for then i`m sorry , it`s just the truth

the "straight cut" part of the "Close Ratio" gears was just easier & less expensive to make, & the tiny weeny little bit of horsepower difference from less thrust loads is just a bonus.

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Modern straight cut gears are mostly inferior material to the original helical gears. They are designed for track use as Matt said, with limited life.
IMO you will quickly get sick of THE NOISE!!! if using it as a daily driver. The drop gears are the worst culprits for this.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thanks guys so I looking at a standard box just need someone that knows what there doing to build it.
my box is fine just 3rd down to 2nd kills me.
Need it fixed as I hate the grinding sound.

Probably don't need to touch the gearset - just change the detent springs, baulk rings and perhaps the selector.

still need to take the box out so I might as well rebuild it.

A rebuild usually doesn't mean a new gearset. A rebuild usually mean new bearings (usually don't need to replace most of them) and gaskets, new selectors if they're worn, and new baulk rings if they're worn. The only reason you would need to replace the gearset is if there is obvious wear. Most wear will come from the dog teeth being destroyed from grinding gears or the gear cone surface being worn smooth. It's a matter of taking gearbox apart and having a look.

I'd add a new layshaft, 99% of the time they are rooted.
And change ALL the needle bearings (except those inside 2nd & 3rd gear)- they are cheap and it's false economy not to.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Learn how to double clutch on down shifts to avoid the crunch. My first moke had no synchro left so that was the only way I could drive it.

Not even double clutch works when your going up a steep hill and you have to drop it to second.