I brought a 1275 head today and was hoping the gurus on here could please translate/identify the marking?
(I also brought a SC12 Supercharger with HIF44 and mounting brackets )


The first two: MOWOG AEG 163 & 25C


The third and forth: WT stamped and the cast W or M in a diamond


And last on the rear underneath the thermostat housing what looks like a casted F


Cheers in advance

Cooper S Mk 1

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Cheers TK, that's great news (luckily I have a block with the matching 11 holes)

Which of the marking identify that? Any idea of the other markings?

The AEG163 number is all you need. It is a very specific number used on early Cooper S engines until the beginning of the Mk2 Coopers in 69.

Prone to cracking, and worth a fair chunk of money if non-cracked. Well worth having it tested and putting it aside whatever the result.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

The AEG163.
Check it carefully for cracks between the inlet & exhaust seats...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What's the best way to test/check it? Will my local machine shop be my best bet?

Cheers guys

Yes, engine machine shops will specialise in crack testing

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Cheers Mick, I shall drop it in to my local shop first thing in the morrow

If it passes I'll get them to reseat the valve. Which leads me to a secondary set of questions! All the hard wear came in an ice cream tub (valve, springs etc) the valve have been labelled one through to eight, does it matter which order they go back in and assuming the guy who label them (unfortunately no longer with us to ask!) labelled them correctly, would one be at the thermostat end or the other end? Plus, is it worth replacing the springs and guides as a matter of course?

Line the springs up on a table from 1 through to 8 and note how much they differ in height, and then ask yourself if you know what the original height was anyway and how much they've lost tension. If they're different, then each valve will behave slightly differently, and you may get bounce without expecting to. You can lay a ruler across the top to really see the height difference in the old springs.

Luckily if they're way off, they're pretty cheap and easy to replace.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

If it is in good condition, it might be worth your while to sell/swap it to someone for a 12G940, as a good AEG 163 is hard to find...

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I'm in two minds, if it's good I'd love to recondition it and place it on my motor so next time I'm asked if my Leyland Mini is a Cooper S I can say parts of it are! But then it would be good to see it back on a genuine Mk1 Cooper S in need of a new head!

First thing first, getting it tested

Yes, there's little to gain other than by name. The same valves can be fitted to the much cheaper, easier to get and reliable 12940 head. Even the extra holes is simple to perform with even a small drill press to hold the drill bit vertical. The iron is very easy to drill.

The value is in the provenance of the head as cooper not so much in what performance gains it can offer.

The brazed bypass hose is interesting, does it look modified elsewhere?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

As you can see there is a very slight variation in heights! If it passes the crack testing I might order new springs (lined up in order from one to eight with one to the left)

Yes, I agree Mick the value is in the provenance I would much prefer to see it as it was intended, sat under the bonnet of a genuine Mk1.

As for it being modified I'm merely a novice still learning so don't know what to look for!