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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 7:26 pm 
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miniron wrote:
Disc CVs are tightened to 150 lbft and then a bit more to align the next split pin hole with the castellated nut.

RonR


This was true, however now the new CVs only have 1 pin hole, not 2 like before, it takes more torque to align the pin hole to the next nut slot.
Perhaps that's why the Rover CV torque spec is higher? But I would not be going to 190, and then looking for the pin hole...

I'm concerned that some of these new chinese? nuts are so loose on the thread now and made from ? material, they are easy to strip.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 8:14 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
miniron wrote:
Disc CVs are tightened to 150 lbft and then a bit more to align the next split pin hole with the castellated nut.

RonR


This was true, however now the new CVs only have 1 pin hole, not 2 like before, it takes more torque to align the pin hole to the next nut slot.
Perhaps that's why the Rover CV torque spec is higher? But I would not be going to 190, and then looking for the pin hole...

I'm concerned that some of these new chinese? nuts are so loose on the thread now and made from ? material, they are easy to strip.


'Tis a problem, the 2-hole thing. It's kinda random, but if you reach....hole alignment, as it were.....just before 150ft/lb, then you can be way over spec by the time the next is reached. So y'gotta decide, aim low and risk undue movement, or aim high, and hope the thread is strong enough, but risk heat.

The alternative is tighten to spec, and hope the split pin was only ever an insurance policy.....

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 9:16 pm 
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Could you drill a hole threw a castle slot into the stub and then the torque would be correct? :?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 9:30 pm 
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Scoop wrote:
Could you drill a hole threw a castle slot into the stub and then the torque would be correct? :?

Yes you can, the CV's thread end is soft. I've done it before.
Before I fit the 2 new ones Italian onesI have stashed, I will drill them out on the mill.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 11:51 pm 
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When i did my nuts up i found if they weren't aligned the best thing was just to completely undo them and re tighten them, sometimes you get the correct torque setting and the nut will be at a different angle and wayyyy wayyyy closer to the disired position required for the splitty.

Just a thought before you go drilling etc. may not work..may work well. Give it a bash and see what happens....

Try tightening to the correct torque and putting the wheels back on, going for a very short drive, even just roll the car around abit. then undoing and re doing the nut..i bet you the hole locations are different!

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 9:34 am 
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Thats because the thread has stretched slightly.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 1:35 pm 
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When fitting new CVs, always check the inner face of the drive flange that seats against the bearing, also the splines inside it.
If it's not flat on this face and the splines are worn, you won't keep the CV nut tight. Replace drive flange with new.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 6:48 pm 
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Location: Ferndale, Perth, West Aust
How do I get the inner CV bits off from the gearbox?
I can't find anything holding them in.
thanks
Frank

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 6:53 pm 
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Pot joints just come out with a big screwdriver / pry bar.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 11:27 pm 
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yep, if its pot joints they just pull out...don't be scared to give it some stick! but not too much!! avoid damaging the soft aluminium surrounding bits and pieces!

When you fit the new ones you'll probably find they go in without much problem, you can feel when they are in but if you also tap them in gently with a soft faced mallet (be careful) you will feel it reach the point of no movement and it also makes a satisfying noise to let you know its in properly ;)

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 3:39 pm 
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frank wrote:
How do I get the inner CV bits off from the gearbox?
I can't find anything holding them in.
thanks
Frank


They're retained by internal circlips ..just like the outers. I find the best way is to use a hardwood (maybe brass would do) drift. Place this at as flat an angle as you can manage behind the inner edge of the joint and whack it hard with a lump hammer. If it doesn't let go, rotate the joint about half way and try again. Repeat as necessary.

Cheers, Ian

PS During re-assembly do NOT place a drift of something down the centre of the outer part of the joint. Place a flat board against the outer edge of the case and whack this with your hammer. I've had a couple of joints that leaked engine oil because some PO has punctured the inner welsh plug that seals the inside of the joint by poking something down inside it.....


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 11:15 pm 
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Location: Ferndale, Perth, West Aust
thanks guys, a large tyre lever popped it out, and slammed my finger when it let go!

I noticed that the inner CV doesn't fit through the hole in the subframe. I hope the outer one does or how do you reassemble it?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 5:33 am 
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The outer CV fits through.

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